Gamepad settings

[FliXis]

1) What sensitivity should I set for Brakes and Throttle? I set it to 20 and 20, but I still often end up turning into the wall right in the pits when leaving the hangar.

2) Is there a precise description of what the settings in the file do anywhere? I saw a YouTube video on the settings, but it didn't seem detailed to me, and the subtitles were inaccurate when generating them, and then it was polished by translating into my language, which turned into a broken phone. Maybe there is a detailed description in text?

3) Maybe someone has good settings with adequate sensitivity?

4) Does it make sense to leave the force feedback strength at anything other than 0? Does it convey any important information?
I didn't like the joystick vibrating when the car was going straight, so I turned it off completely

[FliXis]

I tried different settings and I got the impression that LMU is the racing game with the least useful assists. Its built-in assist still hinders fast cornering too much, and the counter-steering is so slow that it will also start to hinder at times. For example, in AMS2 the built-in counter-steering works more productively and faster, while nothing hinders cornering. But in both of these games you will crash on a flat place(But the chances of this happening in LMU are much higher than even in AMS2), unlike ACC, where the assist, although hinders cornering, makes you ultra-stable, giving comfort. In LMU you are forced to completely lose all assists

[shadow82]

https://www.overtake.gg/downloads/gamepad-settings-adjusted-speed-sensitivity-linearity-to-70-reduce-twitch-at-high-speed.67206/

It's from a year ago, but should still be functional. It gives the same control/feeling as all my settings I shared for the other sims.

[FliXis]

Originally posted by shadow82:

https://www.overtake.gg/downloads/gamepad-settings-adjusted-speed-sensitivity-linearity-to-70-reduce-twitch-at-high-speed.67206/

It's from a year ago, but should still be functional. It gives the same control/feeling as all my settings I shared for the other sims.

Excellent settings! Much better than from the video on YouTube or posted here. Everything is perfect out of the box, I didn't even expect this. I've already lost count of how many times you've helped me :)

A question arose - unlike AMS2, I often skid with loss of traction even after two warm-up laps. This happens during a turn and often (but not always) when I release the gas. Of course, you can release the gas more carefully, but it's still a habit, and the effect is very pronounced. And I noticed that the front tires overheat too much, but skidding does not always occur when they are orange / red, i.e. this is most likely not the root cause of the skid.
Is this a feature of the tire model of the game or are the default car settings not very good? I used both the LMU settings and some academy, the settings from which are built into the game.
Because of this, there is always a fear that a skid will occur and sooner or later it really does happen with a complete loss of control
What pressure should be on warmed up tires?

[shadow82]

Originally posted by FliXis:

I often skid with loss of traction even after two warm-up laps. This happens during a turn and often (but not always) when I release the gas. Of course, you can release the gas more carefully, but it's still a habit, and the effect is very pronounced.

A diff settings I'd say, crank it up a bit. I find most default setups undrivable, so you'll have to get used to that if you plan to play online (most races are fixed setup, still don't udnerstand the reasoning behind it, whatever).

In regards to tyre settings overall, I will let the community of this game answer, otherwise I might just get very angry and frustrated (I do not get how this physic engine gets the praise it does when the tyre model is just so wrong).

[FliXis]

Originally posted by shadow82:

In regards to tyre settings overall, I will let the community of this game answer, otherwise I might just get very angry and frustrated (I do not get how this physic engine gets the praise it does when the tyre model is just so wrong).

How do you deal with cars without ABS? I tried GTE and it is too difficult, every braking is just a nightmare. Tires turn into rags in a couple of circles
I heard that it is necessary to slow down with the pedal of the clamped by 70-80%, i.e. You can’t press it completely on the floor. But making 70-80% on trigger without feedback on it is utopia. Then I climbed to settings for a trigger in Steam Input, I thought that you could simply chop off part of its course at the end and thus cleverly go around this problem. But I did not find such a settings, maybe I'm mistaken, but it seems that she simply does not.
I also heard that on bronze and silver you can use assistants, for example, turn on the forced ABS. For this they will give an extra BOP, probably there is no other way out other than that, because 3 of 4 types of cars in LMU without ABS.

[shadow82]

Originally posted by FliXis:

Then I climbed to settings for a trigger in Steam Input, I thought that you could simply chop off part of its course at the end and thus cleverly go around this problem. But I did not find such a settings

It is near the bottom on the config of your trigger, you can also change the curve just like for a stick. Also in-game reduce brake pressure to about 78-82 and increase progressively once you feel in control. It is a bit harder to figure out the limit in this game as this dev team just does not want to implement different sound sliders, which would help increasing the tyres/brakes sounds to notice start of lock earlier. Not sure if you do so, but without ABS trail braking is way more impactful, so train to master that. A good place to practice is AMS2, take the Caterham Superlight, no aero and no assists so your braking needs to be good.

[FliXis]

Originally posted by shadow82:

Originally posted by FliXis:

Then I climbed to settings for a trigger in Steam Input, I thought that you could simply chop off part of its course at the end and thus cleverly go around this problem. But I did not find such a settings

It is near the bottom on the config of your trigger, you can also change the curve just like for a stick. Also in-game reduce brake pressure to about 78-82 and increase progressively once you feel in control. It is a bit harder to figure out the limit in this game as this dev team just does not want to implement different sound sliders, which would help increasing the tyres/brakes sounds to notice start of lock earlier. Not sure if you do so, but without ABS trail braking is way more impactful, so train to master that. A good place to practice is AMS2, take the Caterham Superlight, no aero and no assists so your braking needs to be good.

I have already changed the slider at the very bottom of the trigger. I changed 32000 to 25600 (20%), but in the game the brake bar reached the end and I returned everything back. Or is the bar not an indicator?
When I cut off the vertical and horizontal slider of the stick, for example, I immediately saw that part of the stroke was completely cut off, in the case of the brake, I assumed that the brake strip on the hud would behave in approximately the same way. Apparently, I was wrong, I'll check now

[FliXis]

Originally posted by shadow82:

It is near the bottom on the config of your trigger, you can also change the curve just like for a stick

The internal dead zone of the trigger, which is by default at 32000? No, it does not work, I set it to twice less, I do not feel any effect when braking and the scale on the hud reaches the very end

[jellobiafra]

To make it short, reduce the braking force in the car setup so that the brake only locks at the last moment.

[shadow82]

Alternatively, if you wish to practice in LMU, use the 499P, the GR10 or the 9X8 to practice cars without ABS. They have their e-motor at the front, so in heavy braking it acts like a mini-sudo ABS, and as a bonus the charging noise can help you figure out how close you are to locking. Remember you also have the onboard LEDs that will help you with that.

Just practice, practice, practice,...

[FliXis]

Yes, I have already started. After 10 laps my front tires are 80%, and the rear ones are 90%. Most likely this is a bad result. On Monza I have a lap time of 1.52. I feel like my braking is too early and takes a long time. When I brake with completely straight wheels - everything is fine. I lose tires the most when braking at the same time as turning, even with a very, very small turn, it is very difficult to keep the brake trigger at the right level. I made a custom curve for the left trigger and reduced the slider by half from 1000 to 500. It became more convenient. I even wanted to do the same with the right trigger, because I often have a feeling that it is too difficult for me to give a small throttle when it is needed, I give too little or do not give at all. And in the game, the braking force is set to 80%.
Because I'm so fussed with the brakes, my fingers don't obey me and I've become bad at shifting gears and steering the car poorly in turns, which is why I sometimes go off the track.

P.S> does that mean there is no way to reduce the trigger in steam input?