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May I ask, why you are doing that many runs in qualifying?
2 in each is normally sufficient, unless something goes tits up.
3 extra flying laps per race is 69 extra flying laps over a season.
That's a lot of engine wear!
-Using the individual tactic Avoid high-risk zebras✔️ the tires last forever in the race so just use one type of tires to start and use the planning chart as a calculation tool only .
- (You can use the maximum of the red line tires and they will give you 10%-15% more condition than the opponents along two dozen laps .
- In 5 races I had 1 accident before I didn't use this tactic (Avoid high-risk zebras✔️) it was accidents every race .
- Getting used to not just looking at the time differences when we want to attack and overtake , how many times have you seen yourself in a space of time of 0.100ms and when activating the maximum DRS instead of approaching the time increases , we have to look to the track and see if it's worth it, it's normal for the time between vehicles to reduce when approaching a tight curve but that doesn't mean if it's a good time to overtake, the opponent defends too.
I made a new part, should I install it right away to improve the car?
You can install it but this will interfere with the knowledge of the drivers' parts and hence also interfere with the search for the perfect engine tuning which can make this search difficult.
- And how am I going to avoid this mess?
Upgrade all parts to phase 2 and only install them when they are all finished for the pilot to evolve his knowledge about them all in one time and not piece by piece.
( Even if this forces us to run with the pieces in phase 1 for part of the time )
This is not advice , but rather a progression strategy , I 've noticed that upgrading parts and putting them on as they come out of the oven interferes with engine tuning and drivers ' knowledge which sometimes makes tunings become difficult . the inappropriate ones and finally cause havoc in the races without getting results with them, it is up to each one, to put them piece by piece as they acquire them or to put them all at once even if this makes the first races without them difficult.
I've done several races with one or two parts evolved and little or nothing has changed because the others have also evolved them, on the contrary they only came to destabilize the car and the settings
I like to see and wait before what other teams are going to evolve with pieces so I can evolve better pieces ;) patience is virtue :p
If you install the new parts too quickly in the next construction phase, the parts you built earlier may no longer be worth anything because the other teams build on top of them and instead of being one foot ahead you are always two feet behind behind the loss that costs money. Of course this is my strategy.
I'd add that you should also drop a few laps of fuel at the start, the reduced engine wear by not having to run high fuel mode and the extra speed from just being a few kg lighter at the start makes a big difference.
Also I'm assuming by DRS you mean ERS, Energy Recovery System and not the Drag Reduction System which activates at certain parts of the circuits. You might want to edit your post so you don't confuse anyone.
Apart from that little bit, it's solid advice except for the install upgrades when you have them all advice, as Zireael said it doesn't make sense to wait since a few tenths here and there can mean the difference between finishing 15th or finishing in the points, even with an underdeveloped HQ.
It's not ERS I'm referring to, but yes, it's really DRS
Drag Reduction System, or DRS.
DRS (Drag Reduction System) is a driver-controlled device used to aid overtaking and improve wheel-to-wheel racing in F1. It involves the driver opening a flap on the rear wing to reduce drag levels and gain top speed when running within a second of another car. The system consists of an adjustable rear wing that reduces drag when activated by the driver.
- Advantages of DRS in Formula 1 include increased straight-line speed by releasing rear wing drag through a slot that can be opened when a car is lapping one second behind the car in front, reducing aerodynamic drag to increase speed maximum and helping to keep the battle going. alive when there are two cars with similar pace.
- The amount of advantage DRS gives the driver depends on the specific lane, but it is estimated to give a speed boost of around 10-12 km/h (6-7 mph) on average.
When I refer to the search for balance on the DRS I mean that when the DRS is loaded we compensate with greater tire and fuel effort to avoid a smaller drop in pace .
The weight of the car depends on the strategy you want to use for fuel and the characteristics of the car's weight compared to other cars, this will interfere with everything
If the car is the lightest in the race
If the car is one of the heavier
Start with more fuel
Start with less fuel
Maintain the fuel standard and manage expenses and earnings during the race
Because during the race the weight of the car with the weight of the fuel included will make a difference in the speed and positions to be achieved.
The rest is just a strategy as I mentioned, use it whoever you want
That's why the stops in the race ♥♥♥♥ the heavier cars and the lighter ones thank you because they get an extra and the heavy ones with a weight that they will have to overload until the end of the race and spend until they see it lol
It's just my point of view
The Mega Joules (MJ) is for the ERS, Energy Recovery System, just saying. All the Drag Reduction System does is open that Rear Wing Flap on a DRS section if you're within 1 second of the car in front at the DRS marker.
It's the MGU-K or KERS as it's commonly know as or in this games case, ERS, that uses the recovered energy stored in the battery while engine breaking to provide an injection of extra energy through the tyres by using the MGU-K's electric motor.
You can't control the DRS in the race, the only thing you can do to affect the DRS is to develop a high efficiency DRS Rear Wing.
Ohh i see you mean ..sorry now i see
Haha, no worries, just thought you'd might want to edit your original post so no one gets confused. As I stated, your race weekend advice is pretty solid, be a shame if someone gets confused by a simple misunderstanding and doesn't benefit from it.