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1. The character building system with the Majors/Minors and Skills, and such. I dislike the way the game punishes you for leveling "wrong", though... but the base system is sound.
2. The Magic system! Something that's completely missing in Skyrim.
3. The world and environments (i.e. the "biomes" so to speak) I personally like Oblivion more because it seems more "real" to me. Also, Skyrim's envs may be prettier technically, but Oblivion are prettier to me in a pleasing kind of way, I personally much prefer the colorful environments of Oblivion to the gritty and desaturated nature of most Skyrim's ambiences.
4. W.r.t. Mods... IMO there are more mods that are interesting and useful for Oblivion than for Skyrim (though, I recon that might be my personal bias at work,) and in Oblivion's time, modders used to be more open to work with each other and thus mods are often part of a common framework, or foundation, something that is rare to non-existent for Skyrim.
5. I like the AI system in Oblivion... in Skyrim the AI seems way too toned down from what you can accomplish in Oblivion... as someone that has played Oblivion with AI enhancing mods since FCOM times to MOO recently, and often saw NPCs do stupid things and amazing things too.
6. Quests are more interesting and diverse in Oblivion, and specially for guilds, more intrincate and interesting... the thing that kills Oblivion, is the limited pool of voice actors, sadly.
7. Ayleid Ruins are my fav type of dungeon... so atmospheric and with great ambience. Skyrim has nothing similar, and the dungeon design is way too simplified and boring. The only thing I ever remember from Skyrim are some of the dwemer ruins, and blackreach.
The things I don't like about Oblivion,
1. Voice Acting.
2. That you need way too many cosmetic mods to make it more appealing visually, coupled with the fact that too many mods makes the game too unstable.
Because of this, even though I now play Oblivion on PC, I have to mod it with controller support and UI because the 360 nostalgia with this game is so strong. To this day, the opening cinematic and Patrick Stewart's speech as Uriel Septim gives me chills, and a feeling rarely duplicated by games I've played in the years since.
The quest lines are so well done, and so diverse they make Skyrim bland and repetitive to me. I've never finished Skyrim's main quest - I've completed Oblivion's at least a dozen times, and have put it in nearly 700 hours over the years.
The open world may seem small in scale compared to many modern titles - at the time it was mind blowing. I can go anywhere, do whatever I want, and the game doesn't try to hold my hand or force me into a linear progression start to finish. I can go at my pace, and get lost in side quests for as long as I desire. This was refreshing and new at the time - it's just as nice now.
Oblivion also has a much more diverse setting than Skyrim as others have said, and the color pallette is warm and sepia tinted as compared to the other game's blue colder tones.
It's not all spectacular; the game certainly has its faults. AI can be goofy, Oblivion gates are extremely repetitive, NPC conversations can be hilarious at best and immersion-breaking at their worst, the speech craft mini-game isn't enjoyable, and everyone looks like a potato.
For me, the game's nostalgia factor, personal gaming significance, and charm outweighs all of these imperfections. Mods go a long way in fixing some these issues, if you so choose. With or without, this is by far and away my favorite installment of the franchise, and I really feel it always will be.
Well, for starters... you'd need OBSE, and Blockhead (which is an OBSE plugin...) and that would allow you to use the Oblivion Chararcter Overhaul v2 (aka OCO.) That's the bare minimum, from which all starts.
After that, you'd need texture replacers and there are several good ones, but just a few cover ALL textures, and many are very specific in nature, so to get best results you'd need to install one of the big ones as base, and then over that some of the specific ones of your liking.
The best option is to follow one of the existing very good guides, like the one from Bevilex[www.nexusmods.com] at Nexus (which has links to most mods that you'd need...)
For texture packs there's basically three... Vibrant Textures by CorePC, Qarl's Texture Pack by Qarl and a new one called Oblivion Upscaled Textures by Kartoffel.
And over those you can install the smaller to the point replacers, for example for clothes, or potions, etc. that you find to your liking.
HGEC Eyecandy is maybe the best body replacer (most compatible) and it comes with its own textures, but there are replacers too for that... though, I don't recall the names atm :/
For Weapons and Armors there are several choices too, but I personally prefer Insanity's Improved Armoury compilation and Weapons Improvement Project.
As for other textures, there are many good replacers out there, it's mostly a pick and choose exercise.
Finally, you can either decide to run Oblivion Reloaded (it overhauls many things from Oblivion, including graphics, but also changes gameplay stuff...) or an ENB (pure graphical) and tweak it to your liking.
Now I know that the NPC conversations system is known for being laughably awkward, but it is at least unique every time.Also the voice actors give some notably satisfying performances at some points, which helps with the problem of a lack of voice actors.
You can probably access Bevilex's page without an account and watch the video tutorials and read the articles/infos... as for downloading, yeah... you'll have to get an account :/
The leveling system sucks balls though.
I play with Oblivion XP Update and Balanced Creature Stats mods for a completely different feel.
In 2006 I was desperate to play it but my PC was in no way up to the task. I could look around fine in the prison cell at the start of the game but the FPS was so low I could hardly move. It was impossible to play but I could see the prisoner opposite my cell and a guard would walk past so I was determined to get it working. Oldblivion didn't help so I upgraded the graphics card and added more RAM and it finally worked. Seeing that giant rat running towards me was unlike anything I had experienced in a game before and a lot of other 'gasp' moments followed during the game. Re-playing it reminds me of that and the astounding moments. It was far from high end rig and the GPU I added was a gforce FX5200 and 2Gb RAM on a Pentium 4, Windows XP system but the FPS increase was enough.
Vast library of mods as well and I've tried many that are of commercial quality like Bethesda created them.