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you find dragonclaw rock (which has a map marker, so you literally can't miss it), then go west until you find a giant statue, then go north until you find the door to serpent's trail
you have to kill the akaviri commander to be able to retrieve the stone he's guarding (it's in his room)
in the room, that the UESP told you to go to, that you apparently skimmed over
i'm not going to hold your hand, go find it
Basically this mission has four phases:
1. Finding your way in. Go to Dragonclaw Rock, get quest update, hike west to the statue, then hike north and there's the entrance. (It's covered in snow if you don't have this quest yet.)
2. A small cave environment with a lot of narrow passages and probably some Ogres and wildlife. Bring a light source. Beware of bears and mountain lions. One or two traps but nothing major. Be sure to pick up the tablet the courier's skeleton is holding (it's hard to miss) you'll need it later.
3. Caves exit into an outdoor area rimmed by impassable mountain ridges, a long winding flagstone path (partly overgrown) weaves through an area chock full of Ogres. Arrows with hombrewed Damage Health are generally the most efficient thing to use on Ogres, but do it any way that works. You don't have to kill them all. Eventually leads to a ruined fortress entrance.
4. The fort has several sections that link to each other through multiple doors, use the map and try to keep your bearings. Lots of skeletons with shields and katanas await you. You don't need to kill them all. You will need to lower some bridges via switches to reach the final room. Lots of dartgun traps in some areas and a few deadfalls, so watch your step and check the pillars for dart holes. Eventually you will meet the spectral commander of the fort. If you remembered to grab the orders in the cave you can just hand them to him and the final door opens, revealing the Madstone sitting on an altar near three treasure chests, and a door leading back to the fort.
Once you have the Madstone you can find the fort entrance where you came in, retrace the outdoor path to the cave, and retreat through the cave back to the mountains near Bruma.
Turn the Madstone in the Countess, get the Ring of the Vipereye as reward, and you're done.