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If you bought your guitar x amount of years ago. Just came back to playing because of rocksmith. GREAT.
Now change your strings. Change your strings change your strings. Think of strings like food, eat it don't eat it, eventually you need to buy more because it is gone or bad.
If you never played your guitar, left it in it's case, and it has the same strings it had 3 years ago. You need to change them and intone. But if you have a NICE guitar $700+ take it to a guitar store and get it SETUP and looked over. You wouldn't skip the dentist for 3 years, don't skip the Luthier for 3 years if you have a nice guitar.
Did you mention that? I'm sorry for my redundancy if you did.
Forgot to mention that but good catch. If your really really new though.. and this first time you changed strings... DO NOT look directly down at the strings when stretching them. if you put them on wrong, this is when they will break.
Also No matter what new guitar you buy. Always. ALWAYS buy new strings the same time you buy the guitar. Make them put them on and INTONE to those strings. Now only play with those strings until you know enough that you feel confident you can adjust your neck tension.
As long as you ALWAYS use the same strings, it is far less likely you will have to get your neck adjusted in the next several years. If you even 1 time put on a different gauge you may have to. Different string gauges and put different tension on the guitar neck, and bridge. Two different brands of .10 gauge standard strings won't make much difference. But going from .9's to .11's will make a big difference.
Also CHANGE 1 STRING at a time. Do not change them all at once. at MOST change 2 at a time. String them up. Change 2 more. string up ext.
A little buzzing you can't hear through the speakers can be acceptable, but if it kills your notes or can be heard through the speakers, you should get your guitar set up by someone who knows what they are doing.
And never touch the truss rod until you have some idea of what you are doing...intonation is NOT something you should be touching the truss rod for.
A new player often hears buzz because they do not FULLY fret the string. Press down all the way. Does it still buzz? If not try to start playing with more pressure if this is the only thing that makes it buzz. This may not be the answer. But in some cases, just playing wrong could be the cause.
I thought I said it could be intoned and buzz. Admitedly I kind of got lost writing this.
1. Open string buzz -- But not fretted buzz. = Usually a bad nut. ( no really ) take it to a luthier.
2. Open string buzz -- AND fretted buzz on one or more frets = Most likely Truss rod adjustment needed.
3. All fret Buzz -- String action likely too low -- It could be once you intone the guitar it will fix itself. IF NOT -- And you have a Tune-0-matic style bridge you can fix fret buzz with those adjustments (usually) -- Adjust, then re-intone and it should be fixed... If not .... take to luthier for truss rod adjustment. After the luthier SHOWS you how to do the adjustments on your guitar, you can likely do them yourself in future. If you have a doubt take to a guitar tech. (some other adjustable bridges exist, I do not know them all)
4. String buzzes ONLY when strummed hard. -- Raise your action, using bridge, if that won't work take to a luthier for truss rod adjustment. Switching to a higher gauge string can sometimes fix this also.
5. Still buzzing even after action adjustment on all frets? -- You (likely) need to dress your frets, and by you I mean a highly trained guitar tech. NO one without real training should ever do this. Even your friend who played 15 years and helped with truss rod cause he is a pro. If your frets need adjusting EXPECT to leave the guitar overnight. Your typical employee at guitar center won't do this. A special tech will. Same with any guitar store, they stop at the Truss. anything more takes a REAL luthier.
Also, harmonics do not depend on the intonation being correct. Your guitar's intonation might be way off, but as long as the open strings are in tune, the harmonics will be spot on as well. At least natural harmonics, but I've yet to see Rocksmith use artificial or pinch harmonics.
Already addressed above, but bears repeating - buzzing does not affect intonation. Intonation has to do with the length of the string, while buzzing is caused by a number of other factors (most of which you already listed in another post).
Once again, incorrect intonation does not prevent harmonics from ringing out.
This is not necessary, there's no problem with changing all strings at once. In fact, every now and then it's almost necessary to do so, in order to properly clean the fingerboard (and also oil it, unless of course it's lacquered, like most maple fingerboards).
The last sentence is not entirely correct. If the truss rod is too loose, string tension creates too much neck relief, which results in excessive string height towards the middle of the neck and consequently fretted notes sounding sharp. The proper response to that would be tightening the truss rod, to counteract the string tension (though not so much as to eliminate neck relief completely).
Other than that, though, the proper place for correcting intonation problems is indeed at the bridge.
I wrote a lot more. I disagreed with the Harmonic thing but realized I was getting way too technical. I will explain it to you in a privat chat and you will either convince me I am wrong or you won't :-) but it is not that big a deal. We are both right, you that a guitar will play the harmonic accousticly, Me that it won't always play the harmonic ( because of how pickups work on non-intoned guitars, and transfer sound to amps, computers ext )
As far as intone affecting buzz. I wrote an explanation. It got far too technical. I deleated it. Most buzz is not caused by intonation. Some buzz can be eliminated by intonation. I will say no more. I agree with you, I also disagree. It really depends.
I decided I will re-write this in a few days to be much much less wall of text. With more generalities. It had gotten far too specific. Most players don't need to know how stuff works. They can google it themselves and get better answers. They just want to know why their game won't register notes.
The basic principle I was trying to get accross was how to avoid fret buzz, and what to do if notes won't register in game. I think I will re-focus on that so it can be more useful to new players. Without getting super technical.
True, it's a good idea to check intonation on several frets. Ideally you'd check each fret with a tuner, but if you're using harmonics as a comparison, then that limits the frets you can check considerably. Note, however, that if you have localised intonation issues (everything seems OK in one position but fretted notes ring sharp or flat in another), then the problem is probably with the frets, and therefore nothing you can fix yourself anyway.
Sorry, I'm not sure what you're trying to say here. If you get buzz or a muffled sound when fretting a note, that has to do with playing technique and will happen regardless of whether or not the guitar has correct intonation.
Okay, I see what you're saying here, but once again I don't think the average intonation issues can cause the harmonic nodes to shift enough to make a difference. If we talk strictly about Rocksmith, which I've yet to see use anything other than 2nd, 3rd and 4th natural harmonics (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here), at most you will actually get a benefit from intonation issues as the 4th harmonic will start ringing out on neck pickups (which are directly underneath the node on most guitars). If we talk about guitar technique in general, then we're no longer restricted to natural harmonics, and artificials will shift the nodes around much more than intonation issues ever will.
Bottom line - if you're having issues with the game detecting harmonics, technique is a much more likely cause than intonation. Or, if the problems are only with the 4th harmonic (over the 5th fret), just switch away from the neck pickup.
I disagree. For one, floating bridges (which I assume you're talking about) will move the moment you remove even one string, so you'll need to readjust them anyway, regardless of how many strings you change at once. And secondly, every guitarist should be able to set up their instrument from zero - tuning, intonation, string height, neck relief, pickup height, etc. If you're an advanced enough player to be using a floating bridge, then you have no excuse for not being able to set it up properly after removing all strings at once. Like I said, you have to do it every now and then anyway.
As for the truss rod, while it will obviously shift a little (just like it will shift during normal adjustments), it's nowhere near enough to cause any problems. If it is, then the guitar was rubbish to begin with and you probably saved yourself a lot of headache down the road by breaking it. At least this way you have an excuse for buying a better guitar.
See also here: http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/General/faq.html#All%20at%20once
Yeah, it's probably the same reason the manuals of all electronic devices that come with some sort of AC adapter say you should only use it with the adapter that it came with. It doesn't mean the device will be permanently damaged the moment you plug in a different adapter. So long as the specs match, it will work - it's not like the manufacturer's own adapter produces some special, magical form of electricity. But if you do use a wrong type of adapter and the manufacturer finds out, they will refuse to fix the problem under warranty. Just like if you handle your guitar carelessly, Gibson/Epiphone/whoever will refuse to fix it for free. The warning about changing strings is there simply to cover all possible bases and give them the maximum amount of excuses and loopholes.
If you can cite an actual known case where changing all strings at once has caused damage to the neck, I'd be very interested in reading about it.