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You don't. A city can only grow if it's local food supply is in surplus. If it's in the red but the global stockpile is still available it takes enough food to stop it starving (and therefore shrinking), but it won't grow. In order to grow the city you need to either build/upgrade/improve farms, or utilise consumable amenities like stored grain, bread or feasts (which give a flat amount of food, and quite often additional bonuses to health, happiness or growth rate).
- place plows and later fertilizer on your most producing farms
- assign experts on farms
- use 5 tiles regions with ideally 4 food and put 4 farms and either a granary or a water well
That, however, only prevents the city's population from dropping, it doesn't make it grow.
For a city's population to grow, the city itself must have a food production equal to or higher than zero.
A few ideas would be:
- Have at least 1 tile as a dedicated farm tile, preferably with 3 or 4 slots and 3+ base food production
- Use grain stores and gourmet meals as amenities