Is Group B nearly impossible?

[C03]

Group B in Dirt Rally was challenging but very much doable. Dirt Rally 2.0 made it even faster (or at least it feels like) and made it harder, nearly impossible for me to drive, but can be done.

EA WRC's Group B just feels wrong to me. Rear side will slip even without any single input. I literally had to drive with stop and go tactic. Can't turn, as I just spin out immediately. Was it just me?

[Paradox1126]

i only have that issue with grp b rwd. the rear end is really unpredictable and doesn't feel right. group b rwd is also my favorite class so it was a little bit of a let down.

as for AWD grp b i have no issues with it at all.

[karik_FIN_134]

Is it Gr B 4wd or rwd u have issues with or in both?

Try Audi in Gr B 4wd as it's front engined and more understeering in nature (than rest of Gr B 4wd which have mid-engines)

My setup in progress tune for Audi in Oceania (New Zealand)

Audi Quattro S1 E2 (Sept 5th 2024) [only tested in TT Doctors Hill dry very briefly]
- Alignment: Front: Toe -1.00, Camber -1.00 / Rear: Toe +2.00 , Camber -1.50
- Brakes: Force 2172, Bias 70%, Handbrake max right
- Differential: Front driv 44%, brak 29%, 58.33 / Center driv 40% brak 30% 50.00, TQ bias 50% / Rear driv 55%, brak 25%, 30.00
- Gearing: 0.290 (80kph flat road) / 0.425 / 0.595 / 0.765 / 1.000 / FD 0.200 (top speed 220km/h or 136.7mph)
- Damping: Front: Slow +1, Fast +2, 0.26mps, Rebound +0 / Rear: Slow +1, Fast +2, 0.26mps,, Rebound +0
- Springs: Front: Rh -10.00mm(lowest), Spr 116, Arb 20.95 / Rear: Rh -10.00mm(lowest), Spr 88, Arb 8.38 <- adjust rear arb if need (firmer/higher vlaue-> more oversteer or softer/lower value for -> more understeer)

Note: front toe working wrong way (when using device driver) so that's why it's -1.00 as it function for me like +1.00 reducing front end rotation and making it more sluggish (Rear toe in working correct way)

###

Of course if issue is those Gr B RWD like Lancia 037 then use lots of toe in (out for front since reversed), have rear camber more negative than front for extra rear grip when going sideways, open up diff locks more -> driving is lock for on throttle handling, braking is lock for on brakes handling, preload is lock for when coasting/throttle lift-off

example for Lancia 037 setup (gravel+snow, faster locations like Finland+Estonia+Latvia+Sweden etc)

- Alignment: Front toe -2.00, camber -1.00 / Rear toe +2.00, camber -1.50 (adjust)
- Brakes: your own (if suspecting brakes are spinning you -> move brake bias few % forwards -> test etc
- Differential: driving 20% (start+adjust), braking 20% (start+adjust), preload 30.00 (start+adjust)
- Gears: your own, or default
- Damping: F+R Slow +1, Rebound +1 (try Rebounds +0 for more grip or Rebounds +2 for more stability)
Springs:
- Ride height: F+R as low without having/getting issues from bottoming out
- Spring Rates: F 130, R 100 (for starters, idk adjustment scale option for this car)
- Anti-roll bars: F 20 (start+adjust), maybe no R arb available so it's at 0

Adjust Front Arb to get handling u want (mainly how car is on steering inputs).
- if wanting to reduce oversteer put higher 25 etc (+fine tune)
- If wanting to increase oversteer put lower 15 etc (+fine tune)

###

Some driving technical advices.
- these older cars don't handle well when it get too bumpy at higher speeds, suspension isn't good enough(limited travel), overall balance can be horrible. These cars were mainly built for acceleration and straight line driving hence so much power and light weight.
- go off the throttle when getting airborn in bumps+jumps, avoid landing with throttle on because due to limited suspension geometry these cars can bounce back in air and having throttle on can cause control issues.

[janusx60]

In real life the drivers of those vehicles experienced the same thing.
Just look at youtube, the drivers said once the cars where too fast for the brain to react on. But i can recommand to watch that on youtube, here you also can get some tips and tricks from real drivers from back then to controll the car, i can now after 2 weeks of learning drive the Audi Quatro S100 E2 without damage to the finish. When i begun it was insta crash. Braking with the left foot and now when to brake and feel the car, but that is only possible if you have force feedback on your wheel.

[C03]

Originally posted by karik_FIN_134:

Is it Gr B 4wd or rwd u have issues with or in both?

Try Audi in Gr B 4wd as it's front engined and more understeering in nature (than rest of Gr B 4wd which have mid-engines)

My setup in progress tune for Audi in Oceania (New Zealand)

Audi Quattro S1 E2 (Sept 5th 2024) [only tested in TT Doctors Hill dry very briefly]
- Alignment: Front: Toe -1.00, Camber -1.00 / Rear: Toe +2.00 , Camber -1.50
- Brakes: Force 2172, Bias 70%, Handbrake max right
- Differential: Front driv 44%, brak 29%, 58.33 / Center driv 40% brak 30% 50.00, TQ bias 50% / Rear driv 55%, brak 25%, 30.00
- Gearing: 0.290 (80kph flat road) / 0.425 / 0.595 / 0.765 / 1.000 / FD 0.200 (top speed 220km/h or 136.7mph)
- Damping: Front: Slow +1, Fast +2, 0.26mps, Rebound +0 / Rear: Slow +1, Fast +2, 0.26mps,, Rebound +0
- Springs: Front: Rh -10.00mm(lowest), Spr 116, Arb 20.95 / Rear: Rh -10.00mm(lowest), Spr 88, Arb 8.38 <- adjust rear arb if need (firmer/higher vlaue-> more oversteer or softer/lower value for -> more understeer)

Note: front toe working wrong way (when using device driver) so that's why it's -1.00 as it function for me like +1.00 reducing front end rotation and making it more sluggish (Rear toe in working correct way)

###

Of course if issue is those Gr B RWD like Lancia 037 then use lots of toe in (out for front since reversed), have rear camber more negative than front for extra rear grip when going sideways, open up diff locks more -> driving is lock for on throttle handling, braking is lock for on brakes handling, preload is lock for when coasting/throttle lift-off

example for Lancia 037 setup (gravel+snow, faster locations like Finland+Estonia+Latvia+Sweden etc)

- Alignment: Front toe -2.00, camber -1.00 / Rear toe +2.00, camber -1.50 (adjust)
- Brakes: your own (if suspecting brakes are spinning you -> move brake bias few % forwards -> test etc
- Differential: driving 20% (start+adjust), braking 20% (start+adjust), preload 30.00 (start+adjust)
- Gears: your own, or default
- Damping: F+R Slow +1, Rebound +1 (try Rebounds +0 for more grip or Rebounds +2 for more stability)
Springs:
- Ride height: F+R as low without having/getting issues from bottoming out
- Spring Rates: F 130, R 100 (for starters, idk adjustment scale option for this car)
- Anti-roll bars: F 20 (start+adjust), maybe no R arb available so it's at 0

Adjust Front Arb to get handling u want (mainly how car is on steering inputs).
- if wanting to reduce oversteer put higher 25 etc (+fine tune)
- If wanting to increase oversteer put lower 15 etc (+fine tune)

###

Some driving technical advices.
- these older cars don't handle well when it get too bumpy at higher speeds, suspension isn't good enough(limited travel), overall balance can be horrible. These cars were mainly built for acceleration and straight line driving hence so much power and light weight.
- go off the throttle when getting airborn in bumps+jumps, avoid landing with throttle on because due to limited suspension geometry these cars can bounce back in air and having throttle on can cause control issues.

This setting dramatically improved the driving. Thanks for sharing your setup.