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The issue here is not calibrate your wheel at 540 or 1080 degrees, otherwise to much a direct rotation... You can compare the same car with another game and you can feel... For example, you can use ford fiesta R5 on RBR with 540 degrees and you can feel that in EA WRC game the rotation is too much direct...
Yes, maybe the problem is dead zones... I don't know, but if you compare the same car on RBR (for exemple a R5 or R2 car) both categories use 540 degrees you can feel a too much direct rotation....
Completely agree with the clutch... If you compare old cars on RBR playing with H patern, here is like a gamepad... Is not natural but in general happens with all controls... On EA WRC is less progressive everything. The throttle in my opinion is feeling much better in RBR or AC than here.
In my opinion is a good game, it has a good things but kind of controls broken the rally experience..
First impression about 1.4.0 patch, is not bad... But not enough... They have changed some parameters on car setups, brakes, toe etc...
Anyway, I don't know but i am still thinking that if you enable soft lock the steering rotation is more direct than normal... I'm comparing some rally cars on RBR or Audi quattro S1 on AC, an... Yes on EA WRC is more direct, only I get the same feeling disabling soft lock and set linearity on -4 or -5...
About clutch it seems similar, I think it can be better... but I think that engine breaking improved than the last patch, I m notice some different driving cars with H pattern reducing gears...
And throttle is the same... You can feel the curve if you press slowly at the start line...
Anyway I need to play more, but in terms of performance improved a bit and more consistent
Clutch is improved if you go in to change the default saturation settings. But same issue as throttle with non-hybrid cars.
Steering--is it possible that -5 is actually linear? All the way to the left should be linear, but the numbers on the slider are illogical/not explained.
Overall, a very poor console experience not translated properly to PC for people with authentic controllers and not game pads.
I had to use this kind of crazy oversteering setup(cambers, anti-roll bars mainly) and it still wants to understeer unless I go full lock 270 both ways (on 540). After this I tried fwd Rally4 Peugeot and it seemed to be more oversteering than this 4wd which makes no sense imo and setup I had in rally4 fwd was even less oversteering.
Junior wrc Rally3 (OCEANIA Taipahu TT dry)
- Alignment: toe 0.00, camber -2.50 / rear toe 0.00, camber 0.00
- Brakes: 2268, 67%, hb 2532.60
- Diff: 44, 41, 90.00 / rear 50, 46, 100.00
- Gears 205, 325, 465, 630, 825, 825 / fd 0.200
- Damping 2, 3, 0.65mps, 1 / rear 2, 3, 0.65mps, 1
- Springs: 20.00mm, spr 95, arb 16.00 / rear 20.00mm, spr 95, 27.24
and if game was dr2.0 setup would so much different in a similar stage (in FIN, POL, USA)
- cambers would be F -1.50, R -1.50
- anti-roll bars maybe F 16.00, R 15-20
-spring rates F 95, R 70-76
Need t try that because steering reaction in that junior wrc rally3 4wd does feel very sluggish like I had example maximal toe in's in use.
This is how my run looked in Junior WRC Rally3 4wd car using that setup (540degrees)
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/2006783174
Might look smooth and fine there but I spent 2-3hours grinding that stage so every corner was in muscle memory (and setup is something so oversteery I wouldn't really want to use normally but had to go to that to get car working).
Mexico is so much slower overall than this OCEANIA so not sure I can get this car working there at all.