New truck has no power

[johndole1981]

Ok, I rebuilt both engines and put the turbo 4 cylinder back in the Yota with a new trans, clutch and all, and a new transfer case. It runs decent. Rebuilt the turbo v8 and put it in the new Ford, got it home and slapped a new trans, torque converter and transfer case in it with new 5.0 gears in both axles, and it’s a dog that won’t climb the first hill past the bridge going to town. I’ve pulled the engine and checked every bolt but it still has no power. Anyone else having this problem? Also, although the windows look like they are open, they are not. If you try to put a can of cram through the open window into the truck, you damage the door.

[WKMissile]

Have not experienced any issues like that, done the repairs 2 times on different saves(new saves though), but i do keep seeing people having issues sometimes without even able to move the truck... did you tried to install 4.1 on both axles to see if it helps?

[M.Stranger]

I am fighting with the Check Engine light. Tried repairs in manual as listed in trouble shooting section. tried each level of eight cylinder builds, or options. I suppose my next option is to tear it down to the block, sell all the parts and start over with all new parts. Too frustrated right now not having the ability to really diagnose the issue.

[johndole1981]

I haven’t tried the 4.1 gears, I’ll try that tomorrow when I try again. The 5 to 1 gears should be lower and have more torque though.

I had bought several spare transmissions and transfer cases hoping that the other Toyota in the woods would become a buildable truck, but those won’t work on the new truck. I had to buy new parts for them to work. That sucks because I filled the shop with spare parts and hoped they would work on whatever came out.

I do think it’s funny that you put the Ford in 4wd with the column shifter for the automatic trans. It should be a floor shifter for 4wd and the column shifter should be for the transmission. Makes you wonder if the dev has ever seen an old truck in person.

[johndole1981]

Originally posted by M.Stranger:

I am fighting with the Check Engine light. Tried repairs in manual as listed in trouble shooting section. tried each level of eight cylinder builds, or options. I suppose my next option is to tear it down to the block, sell all the parts and start over with all new parts. Too frustrated right now not having the ability to really diagnose the issue.

I think it’s funny that a 1970’s Ford has a check engine light in it. Those didn’t exist back then. Plus, it’s got a small block Chevy engine and a GM TH350 transmission, so if it did come with a check engine light, it would be on from the swap.

[Paladwyn]

I was going to come in and mention that it has no power. I struggled to get it up to the still. Had to winch myself there when going through the mud and then up and slight incline. It barely makes it up the hill to the house.

I tried many different things and it still seemed to struggle.

Also, I noticed severe stuttering when driving the truck. It was almost unplayable as it caused repeated pausing of the game and drops to 0 FPS the more I pushed it. If I took things slow, it seemed to be ok, but when I gave it full gas to get through the mud, it caused a lot of issues.

[johndole1981]

I haven’t had the stuttering problem, but I’m running a 5950x and a 3080ti, overclocked and open loop water cooled. Mainstream games like GTA and RDR2 don’t drop below 500fps often.

Power is a big issue with the new truck though. Everything is fresh and it barely climbs the most basic hill when empty. Moving a few tires and wheels to the new house is almost impossible since the truck will barely climb a hill empty, let alone with a bed full of stuff.

[WKMissile]

Yes the 5.0 in reality will have more torque but when this truck came out on the temporary test branch it would show double bolts on the rear dif case if you bolted the 5.0, implying that the 4.1 was needed or was in place.
In the past there was a bug that you could install both diffs in the same case making it drag or even become immovable(one of them would also become invisible and non intractable), so yeah im just trying to make sure thats not the case :)

[johndole1981]

I haven’t seen double bolts, but the bolts were hard to get to light up so you could run them in. If I get a chance to play the game today, I will try buying both sets new and see how they work. It could be that the sets in my shop were glitched for some reason as well. It’s been a while since I got them so I don’t remember if they were new or junkyard parts. I’ll post whatever I figure out.

[Paladwyn]

My rig isn't the best, but I never had the stuttering issue before. Not until this truck. Regardless, it's there.

I checked over the double differential issue and it doesn't seem to be there. I did notice the same thing with the bolts, they are super difficult to tighten because they don't line up with the wrench. These were with brand new ones from the shop.

I'm planning on tearing apart the engine and replace the pistons.

I want to use the truck for heading to the still because it has a bigger box, but it's just not capable.

[toto11132]

your tires are worn out get new ones thats why you have no power

[johndole1981]

Originally posted by toto11132:

your tires are worn out get new ones thats why you have no power

I put brand new boggers on it with double beadlocks before I moved the truck, so that isn’t the problem at all.

[johndole1981]

Ok, I’ve been messing with it a little bit and got the new 4.1 gears in it and now it will barely make it up the driveway. Even less power than it had before. So the gears weren’t the problem.

[WKMissile]

I got it confused by another case(revving but not an inch of movement), if your truck has no power at all change all 8 pistons, the V8 parts have no rust textures, if it is the piston wear should be time for a new water pump and oil filter too.

[johndole1981]

Originally posted by DorU:

I got it confused by another case(revving but not an inch of movement), if your truck has no power at all change all 8 pistons, the V8 parts have no rust textures, if it is the piston wear should be time for a new water pump and oil filter too.

I had actually just rebuilt the engine before putting it in the new truck. But, I’m guessing I accidentally threw an old piston back in it because I rebuilt it again and now it seems fine. I also changed the oil pan because you can’t drain the oil on the v8, it takes a new oil pan to be able to refill it. I went back to the 5-1 gears and that is a good improvement over the 4-1 gears. I didn’t replace the water pump and it seemed to be getting warm, so I will do that now as well.

So now I know that when rebuilding the engines, yeet the old parts down the hill in front of the shop to make sure you don’t mix them up with the new parts. That was a headache that could have been avoided. You would think that the parts would show wear like the 4 cylinder does.

[WKMissile]

Good you got it fixed.
About the V8 drain plug it is a bug (it is also somewhere around the engine if you have the pan installed floating or inside near the pistons), it teleports everytime you save and reload if the V8 is installed in the Diamondback and the I4 is on the floor somewhere. this issue doesnt happen if the V8 is in the Dentside though....but if you want that plug back your best bet is reinstalling it on the toyota, saving and reloading and repeating this untill you get the plug somewhere you can see(saving is necessary everytime).