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haven't played a game since Firaxis server went down :(
It's not "dead", but it's not like there's many people still playing... it doesn't even register on the community hub as far as how many are playing, so it's *very* low. And there's virtually no support anymore, at this point (i.e.: as someone says above, official servers are basically gone now).
The good news:
The few people remaining who do play it are mostly intelligent, kind folks.
Over-all:
The closer a game gets to dying, the better the remaining community typically is. After all, anyone who remains after many others leave tends to be people who actually care, somewhat, about the game. After any hype and so forth dwindles, the cool thing is that, though it might suck to have to really hunt to find players, well, those players are at least worth hunting for *and then some*.
I only play single-player nowadays, and at that, seldomly play at all. But it's a great community if you're willing to come on the forums and find folks to play with.