Install Steam
login
|
language
简体中文 (Simplified Chinese)
繁體中文 (Traditional Chinese)
日本語 (Japanese)
한국어 (Korean)
ไทย (Thai)
Български (Bulgarian)
Čeština (Czech)
Dansk (Danish)
Deutsch (German)
Español - España (Spanish - Spain)
Español - Latinoamérica (Spanish - Latin America)
Ελληνικά (Greek)
Français (French)
Italiano (Italian)
Bahasa Indonesia (Indonesian)
Magyar (Hungarian)
Nederlands (Dutch)
Norsk (Norwegian)
Polski (Polish)
Português (Portuguese - Portugal)
Português - Brasil (Portuguese - Brazil)
Română (Romanian)
Русский (Russian)
Suomi (Finnish)
Svenska (Swedish)
Türkçe (Turkish)
Tiếng Việt (Vietnamese)
Українська (Ukrainian)
Report a translation problem
High Newton's range tops out at 68-69 Fahrenheit, a heat mat can maintain this quite easily
I've been using High Newton yeast as it's the most alcohol resistant one I have. But as I mentioned before I can never get the ABV above 10%. It always ends up at 8% or so no matter what I try. My latest attempt ended up at 8.92% ABV. Adding more yeast and letting it ferment for two more weeks did not make any difference. I'm using the Belgian IPA recipe, with changes to fit the job reqs, if that matters at all.
I've made beers IRL at 13%+ with just a few grams of dry yeast (Lallemand Voss Kveik is a beast). Potential alcohol is a function of fermentable sugars, not number of yeast cells. For a 10%+ beer you want a starting gravity in excess of 1.090 (depends on the final gravity / attenuation). For example, a starting gravity of 1.100 and a finishing gravity of 1.020 would yield 10.5% abv (pretty standard gravity range for a big imperial stout). If you can hit 1.110 then you should break 10% easily. You can do this with a very thick mash, or by adding a fermtable sugar to the wort, such as honey, or corn sugar. You can even add liquid malt extract at the beginning of the boil, though you may need to extend the boil duration to hit the correct volume and gravity.
More grains in mash = more sugar.