Is tuning gears ratios hard?

[ᶻ𝗓𐰁]

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[Alex]

yeh im lost too would love to know how to do it. kinda annoying that you cant see the setups when you download one

[Patroh]

Power and torque graphs as well telemetry's "general" panel which, amongst other information, displays currently generated power and torque on each rpm range will greatly aid you in finding power band.

[ShootThatGap]

Tuning gears is WAY easier than suspension tuning, so if you've got a lock on that..

Save a base tune and just play around with them, you'll find what works for the build. Hell, all some cars need is a new gearbox and they become a totally different monster

[vongdong]

I find tuning gears somewhat easy except for electric cars.

I usually play with the final ratio first to see where the top speed actual starts to get affected then tune from there. The shorter the gears are (sliders to the right) the more acceleration you get so ideal for tracks with lots of turns and cars with low power. Longer gears (sliders to the left) help with keeping traction in high powered cars and makes the powerband more usable.

Tune gear ratios for the intended use of the vehicle.

[vongdong]

What do you mean? Final ratio ultimately affects how the car drives because it's the differential gears. You can have your car be more peppy in any gear with a higher ratio but give up top speed or have it feel more lethargic but with a higher top speed with a lower ratio.

[S5yn3T]

Move sliders around and hope for the best.
You mostly want 1st gear to be as long as necessary for the wheels to stop doing burnout at launch, and rest should be evenly spaced out with each gear being shorter than the previous one, ideally each gearshift should land on rpm where you have peak torque.

[Selphea]

Try HokiHoshi's tuning guide:. It's for Forza 4 but still relevant for 5: https://youtu.be/D6qthLir2iI

Personally, I start with the first and last gears.

First gear stretches as long as possible until the 0-60 stops getting better (unless it needs a 2nd gear to hit 60).

Last gear also goes as long as possible until max speed stops getting better.

After that, space the middle gears out so that there's a gentle upward slope from 1st gear to last.

For most engines, less gears is usually better but if it has trouble hitting max speed then add more gears (and reduce wheel rim weight if your PI drops). With Centrifugal Superchargers, more gears seems to work better since their effects kick in at higher RPMs.

[JackieTheDemon]

Put 10 gears in every car, racing clutch, easy win.

[sintri]

Don't think final drive matters since it's all ratios and the range of adjustment is enough to cover most normal use cases. Engines typically make more power as they reach higher rpms, hence ideally you want to tune your gears so you're landing at 3-5k+ rpm when you shift up. This doesn't affect electric cars which make static torque regardless of the rpm, nor cars with low rpms since you'd want to land in the 1-3k range. But that is pretty much the basis of gear tuning, shift up so you can land at a higher rpm for more power.

In theory more gears shorter bands = more time at higher power, however shifting takes time which is also time spent making 0 power, which is what CVTs are suppose to solve, but CVTs also suffer some from efficiency and durability.

But pretty much the main one you need to be concerned about is 1st. You want it at a rate where you won't be stuck without power but you also won't hit the max too fast. Simplistically start high and keep dropping first bit by bit until you can achieve a burnout, though some cars won't and don't need to burnout. Also good to make a mental note of where your redline speed is in first is since it's hard to tell when you hit it when you do burnout. From there if you want the easy way just evenly space out the rest of the gears so they all look the same or resemble a gradual slope with each new gear starting at a higher rpm than the previous.

That more or less is the basics, though for quite a few cases you're better off with wider gears for 1-4 and shorter 5/6+, just allows you to go through turns with no/minimal shifting while still maintaining reasonable acceleration and top speed.