car keeps spinning out!!

[grimeygamer69]

So i upgraded my konig with the engine from the gas station and all the parts from roger, I mean ALL of them. and now my car keeps just spinning out. Is there a setting or something I need to change?

[adamtiller]

your tires thats all i know

[GioSerpo™]

Yea, you're not the only one. Apparently you gotta have a wheel and pedals to have any control at all, and the ones that work are limited.

[TerrorTrip]

my xbox controller handles the car just fine to be honest
just dont floor it

[Son Of Perdition]

You have to set up your suspension. Another poster said they were working on a guide for it. But generally, you have to tweak the tow, camber, and springs.

There is no, one perfect tune for it, it's all subjective, but you can go a long way to taming the turbo without being "perfect". My setup is roughly 30psi tires, 1.5 deg tow in the front .5 in the rear with I think 2 degrees of camber because s t a n c e . And it's by no means perfect, I still get pull to the right at the higher RPM in 3rd gear, but it's not the out of control spin out your car pull, but something requiring the faintest input to correct. Generally speaking, tow out, aka a negative number or angling the wheels like a V or duck's feet increases stability at the cost of turning, whereas tow in, positive number or angling the wheels toward the grill, increases turning. And camber effects the grip load in turns with negative camber being more grip in the turns. Both work to negate the drift.

Alternatively, you can opt not to use the turbo if it's too much power (incoming too much information that you don't actually need)

The way turbos work can lead to a large spike in horsepower as the engine hits the point in it's power band where the turbo begins to spool. Horsepower from a naturally aspirated engine (no turbo) is a fairly linear increase as the engine hits it's RPM limit. (it's not actually linear, it's more a hump but for our purposes here it's close enough) A turbo however causes a more exponential spike in power output that in turn can result in less predictable wheel spin. Now generally, real life cars from the manufacturer will either have a turbo that is not so powerful that it renders the suspension useless and sends your car careening off a cliff or they address it with a combination of suspension and gearing. Well, they do all of the above regardless, but given in game we cannot adjust the gears then it all has to be done in the suspension, or by short shifting.

Regardless, all of that is to say, that if you're using M&K then you may be better off with the upgraded engine and intake parts over the turbo because the more lineal power band will likely be more forgiving and controllable for wsad inputs.

[Frutz]

I made the crucial mistake of putting on new tires/wheels without filling them up with air and that had me spinning out non stop and I got stuck and had to get towed and then had to walk to town to get the car only to realize that I could've just pumped the tires to resolve the problem.

[Kez]

Seems like the turbo was intended for drift builds. Stick to the ITB intake if you're on keyboard.

[Zaraphiel]

Yeah with good adjusments on camber/toe and spring it's ok. Even with Keyboard I can control the car

[Coors]

Originally posted by Zaraphiel:

Yeah with good adjusments on camber/toe and spring it's ok. Even with Keyboard I can control the car

Many of us still can't. For me 1st and 2nd is useless. Even if I start in 3rd gear it eventually spins out. I've tried a lot of settings including some that you posted. There just isn't enough traction.

[Matzarella]

I aggree. would love a tweak/adjust guide. I got my toe and camber about right. but i have no idea on tweaking the shocks. Bump force etc.

[Zaraphiel]

Originally posted by Matzarella:

I aggree. would love a tweak/adjust guide. I got my toe and camber about right. but i have no idea on tweaking the shocks. Bump force etc.

I'll try to make a guide but I still have to figure out bump force/rebound that's all I don't know yet xD

[G Willikers]

Originally posted by GioSerpo™:

Yea, you're not the only one. Apparently you gotta have a wheel and pedals to have any control at all, and the ones that work are limited.

You can do it with a decent controller. The problem with Keyboard is it's not pressure sensitive for steering or acceleration, so a fully upgraded car spins out really quickly.

Keep the engine rpm under 6k and the car's controllable using all season tires (although if you can afford Roger's upgrades you should really have sport tires anyway).

If you don't have a controller or wheel then stick with the ITB intake and stock engine, maybe also the automatic transmission. it's still decently powerful but not so much that you need to feather the accelerator.

For anyone looking for a decent starter wheel who can't afford a $250 or $400 logitec, I got a budget model called a DOYO that I'm really enjoying. It's the cheapest wheel I could find but it's pretty responsive and enjoyable, especially for the price. It does have a pretty big deadzone with this game that I was able to get rid of with x360ce (controller emulator). It was $115 for me with tax on amazon.

[chiondon]

playing on keyboard/mouse i set my traction control to 10 and dont spin out at all going at any speed

[Noah Juan Juno]

Rally shocks, and CRAM your car with big bricks of weed, which, freakishly, weigh the same as *huge* bricks. Just watch the thing droop with each brick you add. Thankfully, it doesn't feel like it adds weight to the car, per se. Just lots and lots of sticky, sticky traction. It's as if you had a car full of weed or something. Serious on this, though. I've found it works the best. And you can put huge bricks into the car - much less labor intensive than individual big bricks - and then unbundle [E] them. It goes from weighing a value of 10 to a value of 270. HOLY CRUMBS.

[Ragequit Inc.]

Buy a decent wheel and you'll have no problems. ;)

[a single white female]

Originally posted by Ragequit Inc.:

Buy a decent wheel and you'll have no problems. ;)

I guess my Fanatec CSL DD wheel is *too* decent because the game does not recognize it. It doesn't recognize my Heusinkveld pedals either... sadge.