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Dit topic is vastgepind, dus het is waarschijnlijk belangrijk 
Regels en richtlijnen voor discussies
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ITBs and full naturally aspirated engine setup, all suspension upgrades except using the sports shocks for simplicity.
Tyre Pressures: 40psi all round. Tyre pressures should normally follow the weight distribution of a car, so equal pressures front and back since the car ought to be close to 50/50. If anything the front would be slightly heavier, so a slight relative reduction in pressure at the rear may be worth a try.
Toe: this is the setting most people wont have a clue about. This dramatically affects your stability, both in a straight line, and cornering. The rule is, the front has to toe OUT.. front edges of the wheels sticking out a bit.. And the rear has to toe IN. I am running 1 degree of toe at both ends, respectively. Front end toe out helps straight line and steering stability, and rear end toe in helps with cornering stability.
Camber: okay, so we all know negative camber looks cool, and gives you more grip when going round a corner. However, there is no need to ramp it up to maximum. In the real world, recommended camber for a road car is maybe up to -2 degrees. I run -3 degrees at the front, -2 at the back. This gives the front slightly more grip than the back under hard cornering, which is what you want to prevent understeer.
ECU:
For using a keyboard, ABS at 10. Controller, turn it down a bit. Pedals, turn it very low.
Traction control: for the ITBS, a traction control setting of 3 is enough to get you off the line faster, but wont ever interfere once you are out of first gear. This is a nice compromise. If you are using the turbo, start out at 10, then reduce it as you get a feel for it.
Power tab:
Okay, the issue here is that the standard gearbox has pretty wide ratios. If you shift too early, the engine falls out of the powerband, and bogs. Even if you shift at the right moment, you can really feel it loose momentum anyway. So, the key is to beef up the midrange a bit, at the expense of the low end, which you dont use at all in fast driving. The last 4 numbers are the important ones.. This will give you power from 5k rpm upwards, which is what you need.
The standard numbers are 5,10,13,19,23,25. I am using 2,9,14,21,24,25. This gives a nice smooth power curve, with a wide power band from 5k up. This is ideal for track racing and fast road driving, but isn't so good for launching, unless you have a clutch to use. With the turbo, this disadvantage goes away, and the wide power band helps tame the handling.
I should say that the standard power band is a good all rounder, and yes, you can complete all the races and challenges with it standard.
Directly on the ECU you can click on it
thank you for putting the information above out there because it will be very useful ;)
Racetrack can be done with stock Konig. And the car doesn't need turbo parts to win anything.
I have another ECU tuned and I'll do some tests runs to beat my racetrack time (45.487s)
Along with probably a rework on my suspensions settings as it can be improved. It feels to understeer a bit too much, need to steer a bit more for the track.
Interested to know how those test runs went and if you've made any adjustments based on them.
Not really far tbh: I'm too busy to play at this moment :(
I just tried these settings and drove from home, through town to the track. It felt like I was glued to the road's surface. Oh, Mom is SO gonna yell at me the next time I call. That was FUN!!!!!