Official Tuning Thread

[Zaraphiel]

Hey guys.

I was thinking about a thread to share your tuning (Suspensions & ECU).

Feel free to share your car settings here !

[JFarmer]

ECU Setup - (Very Best) - Made by me JFarmer
Hello to all players.

I have try many times ECU setup and after many test i have found the very best for all transmission, automatic and manuel

My Setup is this: (7-11-13-17-22-25)

I don't like to use the automatic transmission, because of is to easy to go out the road and go on the water of the border of the road. Manuel transmission is better to cotrol the speed.

(5-10-13-18-24-25)
(5-10-13-19-25-23)
(6-10-13-18-23-25)
(7-11-13-17-22-25) - very very best, is shift very fast, more fast of others setup, because of the curve if better.
(7-11-14-17-21-25)
(7-12-15-20-25-16)
(8-13-16-21-25-12)

Enjoy.

[ywyattwhy]

TeenyTinyToes a écrit :

My most recent tuning (for off road konig)

Height: 510mm aka maxed
Force: 28200nm
Bump Force: 4080
Rebound: 3088
Camber:
Front: -2 deg
Rear: -2.5 deg
Toe in/out:
Front: -1.5 deg
Rear 1.8 deg
ECU:
Wastegate (haven't fully learned function still new to mechanics): MAXED
ABS: 5
Traction control: (highly recommended from my experience) MAXED
RPM: 6, 8, 16, 18, 22, 25

Note: This is with a turbo manifold, performance engine, race exhaust, individual throttle bodes, welded differential, front and rear race sway bars and nitro if that changes anything.

All turbo parts have to be used, you cant use a turbo manifold and a ITB intake

[peob59]

Pete a écrit :

My current setup: sensible and stable, yet able to complete all the track challenges. Here's what I set, and perhaps more importantly, why.

ITBs and full naturally aspirated engine setup, all suspension upgrades except using the sports shocks for simplicity.
Tyre Pressures: 40psi all round. Tyre pressures should normally follow the weight distribution of a car, so equal pressures front and back since the car ought to be close to 50/50. If anything the front would be slightly heavier, so a slight relative reduction in pressure at the rear may be worth a try.
Toe: this is the setting most people wont have a clue about. This dramatically affects your stability, both in a straight line, and cornering. The rule is, the front has to toe OUT.. front edges of the wheels sticking out a bit.. And the rear has to toe IN. I am running 1 degree of toe at both ends, respectively. Front end toe out helps straight line and steering stability, and rear end toe in helps with cornering stability.
Camber: okay, so we all know negative camber looks cool, and gives you more grip when going round a corner. However, there is no need to ramp it up to maximum. In the real world, recommended camber for a road car is maybe up to -2 degrees. I run -3 degrees at the front, -2 at the back. This gives the front slightly more grip than the back under hard cornering, which is what you want to prevent understeer.

ECU:
For using a keyboard, ABS at 10. Controller, turn it down a bit. Pedals, turn it very low.
Traction control: for the ITBS, a traction control setting of 3 is enough to get you off the line faster, but wont ever interfere once you are out of first gear. This is a nice compromise. If you are using the turbo, start out at 10, then reduce it as you get a feel for it.
Power tab:
Okay, the issue here is that the standard gearbox has pretty wide ratios. If you shift too early, the engine falls out of the powerband, and bogs. Even if you shift at the right moment, you can really feel it loose momentum anyway. So, the key is to beef up the midrange a bit, at the expense of the low end, which you dont use at all in fast driving. The last 4 numbers are the important ones.. This will give you power from 5k rpm upwards, which is what you need.
The standard numbers are 5,10,13,19,23,25. I am using 2,9,14,21,24,25. This gives a nice smooth power curve, with a wide power band from 5k up. This is ideal for track racing and fast road driving, but isn't so good for launching, unless you have a clutch to use. With the turbo, this disadvantage goes away, and the wide power band helps tame the handling.
I should say that the standard power band is a good all rounder, and yes, you can complete all the races and challenges with it standard.

[Kay]

Zaraphiel a écrit :

My current settings:

Turbo: 20 PSI
ABS: none (I removed ABS module)
TC: 1 (Helps a bit in first and that's all)
Power: 5 - 17 - 23 - 25 - 25 - 0: shift at 7kRPM
Suspensions:
Height:15/50
Spring force: 40/50
Bumper/rebound: Untouched (25/50)
Front suspension:
toe: 1 (40/100)
Camber: -4 (33/50)
Rear suspensions:
toe: -0.8 (58/100)
camber -3.5 (32/50)

I have another ECU tuned and I'll do some tests runs to beat my racetrack time (45.487s)
Along with probably a rework on my suspensions settings as it can be improved. It feels to understeer a bit too much, need to steer a bit more for the track.

What tires do you use for this? I tried with offroad and didn't go well

[KINGMATHEW]

20 PSI turbo, -7.5 degrees of camber and 300mm on the front, -3 degrees of camber and 320mm on the back

[Zman99]

PLZ Add a sandbox Mode

[HU1212ICAN3]

Pete a écrit :

My current setup: sensible and stable, yet able to complete all the track challenges. Here's what I set, and perhaps more importantly, why.

ITBs and full naturally aspirated engine setup, all suspension upgrades except using the sports shocks for simplicity.
Tyre Pressures: 40psi all round. Tyre pressures should normally follow the weight distribution of a car, so equal pressures front and back since the car ought to be close to 50/50. If anything the front would be slightly heavier, so a slight relative reduction in pressure at the rear may be worth a try.
Toe: this is the setting most people wont have a clue about. This dramatically affects your stability, both in a straight line, and cornering. The rule is, the front has to toe OUT.. front edges of the wheels sticking out a bit.. And the rear has to toe IN. I am running 1 degree of toe at both ends, respectively. Front end toe out helps straight line and steering stability, and rear end toe in helps with cornering stability.
Camber: okay, so we all know negative camber looks cool, and gives you more grip when going round a corner. However, there is no need to ramp it up to maximum. In the real world, recommended camber for a road car is maybe up to -2 degrees. I run -3 degrees at the front, -2 at the back. This gives the front slightly more grip than the back under hard cornering, which is what you want to prevent understeer.

ECU:
For using a keyboard, ABS at 10. Controller, turn it down a bit. Pedals, turn it very low.
Traction control: for the ITBS, a traction control setting of 3 is enough to get you off the line faster, but wont ever interfere once you are out of first gear. This is a nice compromise. If you are using the turbo, start out at 10, then reduce it as you get a feel for it.
Power tab:
Okay, the issue here is that the standard gearbox has pretty wide ratios. If you shift too early, the engine falls out of the powerband, and bogs. Even if you shift at the right moment, you can really feel it loose momentum anyway. So, the key is to beef up the midrange a bit, at the expense of the low end, which you dont use at all in fast driving. The last 4 numbers are the important ones.. This will give you power from 5k rpm upwards, which is what you need.
The standard numbers are 5,10,13,19,23,25. I am using 2,9,14,21,24,25. This gives a nice smooth power curve, with a wide power band from 5k up. This is ideal for track racing and fast road driving, but isn't so good for launching, unless you have a clutch to use. With the turbo, this disadvantage goes away, and the wide power band helps tame the handling.
I should say that the standard power band is a good all rounder, and yes, you can complete all the races and challenges with it standard.

This dudes a joke and has no actual idea how tuning works in MB.

[cox886227]

Pete a écrit :

My current setup: sensible and stable, yet able to complete all the track challenges. Here's what I set, and perhaps more importantly, why.

ITBs and full naturally aspirated engine setup, all suspension upgrades except using the sports shocks for simplicity.
Tyre Pressures: 40psi all round. Tyre pressures should normally follow the weight distribution of a car, so equal pressures front and back since the car ought to be close to 50/50. If anything the front would be slightly heavier, so a slight relative reduction in pressure at the rear may be worth a try.
Toe: this is the setting most people wont have a clue about. This dramatically affects your stability, both in a straight line, and cornering. The rule is, the front has to toe OUT.. front edges of the wheels sticking out a bit.. And the rear has to toe IN. I am running 1 degree of toe at both ends, respectively. Front end toe out helps straight line and steering stability, and rear end toe in helps with cornering stability.
Camber: okay, so we all know negative camber looks cool, and gives you more grip when going round a corner. However, there is no need to ramp it up to maximum. In the real world, recommended camber for a road car is maybe up to -2 degrees. I run -3 degrees at the front, -2 at the back. This gives the front slightly more grip than the back under hard cornering, which is what you want to prevent understeer.

ECU:
For using a keyboard, ABS at 10. Controller, turn it down a bit. Pedals, turn it very low.
Traction control: for the ITBS, a traction control setting of 3 is enough to get you off the line faster, but wont ever interfere once you are out of first gear. This is a nice compromise. If you are using the turbo, start out at 10, then reduce it as you get a feel for it.
Power tab:
Okay, the issue here is that the standard gearbox has pretty wide ratios. If you shift too early, the engine falls out of the powerband, and bogs. Even if you shift at the right moment, you can really feel it loose momentum anyway. So, the key is to beef up the midrange a bit, at the expense of the low end, which you dont use at all in fast driving. The last 4 numbers are the important ones.. This will give you power from 5k rpm upwards, which is what you need.
The standard numbers are 5,10,13,19,23,25. I am using 2,9,14,21,24,25. This gives a nice smooth power curve, with a wide power band from 5k up. This is ideal for track racing and fast road driving, but isn't so good for launching, unless you have a clutch to use. With the turbo, this disadvantage goes away, and the wide power band helps tame the handling.
I should say that the standard power band is a good all rounder, and yes, you can complete all the races and challenges with it standard.

Dude legit teaching me new parts I've never heard of before thank you man.

[Vela550]

Ambrose a écrit :

Alright I was going Insane for a minute trying to get this car to handle sorta normal. Turns out the biggest thing is TIRES.

So I'm running the OEM Engine, ITB intake, Performance exhaust/manifold. LSD, Adjustable A-arms, OEM Shocks, Manual Trans, and Tunable ECU.

ABS: Started at 10 and have been backing off 1 at a time now at 4 and thinking about removing it entirely.

TC: started at 10 and now at 7 been trying to find a sweet spot where I can give it some gas but 7 is still to high as its interrupting my ability to really get sideways.

RPM curve is still under adjustment to make the car accelerate at a smooth consistent rate but im getting close. currently it is at 8 / 12 / 15 / 19 / 22 / 19

First things first get new tires. All season are better than winter by a great deal but still make the car want to drift when accelerating or decelerating to hard.

Second Toe In is your friend. Just a minor adjustment to .5 toe in to the rear will help pull with accelerating. (haven't played with this number at all but the .5 made the car controllable enough for me to mob in to town at like 80km/h with the winter tires.
I also added the same .5 toe in in the front to fight the natural FR issue of the front tires wanting to toe out more as you accelerate through a turn. (also haven't played with the numbers but this made the car continue to steer into the turn much better.)

from there I went and got the adjustable a arms and went to -2 camber on all 4 (need to tweak this but in general this also help cornering stability a little)

and finally after trying all three diffs and checking all the part like 10 times because I was convinced it was something loose or missing causing the problem (mind you I've played a ♥♥♥♥ load of Wrench and the number of parts in this is nothing in comparison so I was really just stuck in Wrench mindset like I must have missed a washer or bearing somewhere. lol if this is you calm down the game isn't that detailed lol you probably just need better tires)

swapped to all seasons and now with the same settings I can mob at 100+km/h on the dirt fully sideways with a pretty good amount of control. and on asphalt the pull is almost entirely eliminated. (after looking at a chart of how the tire performance in game works even just an upgrade to the summer tires will likely eliminate the pull while accelerating and breaking entirely.

One thing I have noticed is under acceleration the character will release about 3/4 of a turn on the steering wheel and when breaking he will apply about 3/4 of a turn. This creates a really bad understeer while accelerating in any vehicle in the game and vice versa a really intense oversteer while braking. This may not be a problem for people with a working steering wheel to use for the game but anyone that uses key board or controller this will be useful to keep in mind and I hop that this gets remedied in the future.


Useful videos to help understand Alignment:
Suspension Geometry: (covers all below and more with more videos that go deeper)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbReLNi2JP4&list=WL&index=1

Alignment Series Engineering Explained
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83_GTZeuF6M (Toe Angle)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gh7gWJAvOvs (Caster Angle)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSFmUmVWBp0 (Camber Angle)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUcZ63unEyU (Steering Axis Inclination)


Well I want to update with some Solid tuning strategies so you can make your own tunes and not rely on copying to make the car controllable however at the moment on a new file struggling to get the car to exhibit the odd pulling behaviors that I had an issue with originally and I haven't adjusted toe at all so I am slowly upgrading an OEM Konig to see at what point or what part my first car started to really pull.

There will at some point in the near future be a post on my findings.

I really appreciate the video links, thank you

[nerwus]

is not perfect and i green a this.if you see something wrong please tell me
rear camber:2 degres
front camber:3 degres
sterring speed:10
sterring angle:50 degres
what I didn't write is stock

[simenhoaas]

i tested with no abs module and i just slid

[KINGMATHEW]

Son Of Odin a écrit :

Owners of the RPM gauge, what do you set for your redline?

standard 7000 RPM

[misiunia1989]

R