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Fordítási probléma jelentése
Then take the turbo off. No one's forcing you to use it. :)
Your not actually adjusting the turbo psi.. your more like choking the engine power.
The PSI gauge is always at exactly what you set it at on the first page.
If the turbo was actually being adjusted you'd see a fluctuation in the gauge but you don't.
Are you actually installing the ECU? My gauge fluctuates according to what I set the ECU to.
Yes.
And if I set the actual turbo PSI on the first tab to 20psi.. it will always be 20psi no matter what I do for the graph on the 2nd tab. Hits 20psi and stays there and the vehicle just feels like its choked out. [/quote]
A proper turbo has a wastegate with a "spring" which sets a minimum amount of boost.
Lets use 7psi as an example.
The turbo can do a maximum of say 20 psi
From that data if you set the graph to all zeros you should only ever make 7psi of boost but the gauge always shows "20" and then cuts the power to the car and makes it slower but will still 20 psi.
If the ECU was actually controlling the boost then the gauge would show 7psi and as you increase the graph the boost gauge would change in accordance to a maximum of 20psi.
But this isn't how it works.
A proper turbo has a wastegate with a "spring" which sets a minimum amount of boost.
Lets use 7psi as an example.
The turbo can do a maximum of say 20 psi
From that data if you set the graph to all zeros you should only ever make 7psi of boost but the gauge always shows "20" and then cuts the power to the car and makes it slower but will still 20 psi.
If the ECU was actually controlling the boost then the gauge would show 7psi and as you increase the graph the boost gauge would change in accordance to a maximum of 20psi.
But this isn't how it works. [/quote]
I get all of that. The turbo doesn't actually function as a turbo but, adjusting the PSI does change the way the car performs. Is it exactly like RL? No. Anyway, just a suggestion. I've played around with the boost and between 5 and 15 PSI there is a handling difference.
I get all of that. The turbo doesn't actually function as a turbo but, adjusting the PSI does change the way the car performs. Is it exactly like RL? No. Anyway, just a suggestion. I've played around with the boost and between 5 and 15 PSI there is a handling difference. [/quote]
Of course changing the PSI is going to make a difference.. its less power.
Less power will give more traction cause your not spinning as much.
But the fact still remains.. how you play with the turbo settings in this game isn't actually playing with the turbo.
Think of it more as sticking a sock in the intake and choking it out.
I set up the handling for lift off oversteer.
40 psi tyres all round
1 degree toe at the rear (thats toe in, front of the tyre pointing inwards)
-1 degree toe at the front (toe out, front of the tyres pointing outwards)
2 degrees neggy camber at the rear
3 degrees neggy camber at the front
ABS 10
Traccy control 3
All based on real world principles rather than trial and error. It worked first time, so why mess with it?
Only changes i made from my street setup was traction control from 0 to 3 to beat the drag race with a keyboard, and 1 degree more neggy camber on the front to reduce the understeer and shave an extra second off my track time. This is a remarkably tolerant setup that allows even mid corner braking which just tucks the nose in nicely.
Do note that the ecu update would have made your turbo default to 10psi until you got the tunable ecu installed, so yes, it would have changed the handling through that. This information was in the patch notes.
By the way.. a wastegate sets the MAXIMUM amount of boost, not the minimum. The minimum boost on any turbo setup is slightly less than nothing.
The problems are that it shows zero at idle and on overrun, rather than slightly less than zero as it should. And the horrible "turbo" noises that sound like someone recorded them by making stupid noises into a microphone. The "wastegate sound" which you can set is actually the blow off valve sound, but no BOV is modeled, just the wastegate actuator. A wastegate makes a lovely dull roar when it opens, its the BOV that sneezes at you when you lift off.
The "power" tab is more like changing your camshaft. Defining the power curve. I found big improvements here from bumping up the midrange at the expense of the low end, because the gear ratios are a bit too wide to keep the engine on cam all the time. It also allows you to keep the car under control by changing up a gear, without it bogging.