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Rise the lamp and use light attack (hold light attack for like 1s or 2s) and you dont need to go to Umbral, then the hardest fight because of the butthead spitting stuff at you become a joke.
I assume you asre going to the snow area that's more of a second part of game area, the first area you want to head to is mines and then onward to the end of that, you get there via the kinda blighttown in early game.
As for soul farming i honestly got no idea, i personally didn't need to farm them really, just went with natural progression
Later on, if you find somewhere easy and safe to farm that gives you more runes per minute go for it.
If you struggle in snow area then yeah going to first route is the way to go, you'll get lvls along the way just by progressing
"Angry older man" is a perfect way to describe the captain when you first meet him lmao