Instal Steam
login
|
bahasa
简体中文 (Tionghoa Sederhana)
繁體中文 (Tionghoa Tradisional)
日本語 (Bahasa Jepang)
한국어 (Bahasa Korea)
ไทย (Bahasa Thai)
Български (Bahasa Bulgaria)
Čeština (Bahasa Ceko)
Dansk (Bahasa Denmark)
Deutsch (Bahasa Jerman)
English (Bahasa Inggris)
Español - España (Bahasa Spanyol - Spanyol)
Español - Latinoamérica (Bahasa Spanyol - Amerika Latin)
Ελληνικά (Bahasa Yunani)
Français (Bahasa Prancis)
Italiano (Bahasa Italia)
Magyar (Bahasa Hungaria)
Nederlands (Bahasa Belanda)
Norsk (Bahasa Norwegia)
Polski (Bahasa Polandia)
Português (Portugis - Portugal)
Português-Brasil (Bahasa Portugis-Brasil)
Română (Bahasa Rumania)
Русский (Bahasa Rusia)
Suomi (Bahasa Finlandia)
Svenska (Bahasa Swedia)
Türkçe (Bahasa Turki)
Tiếng Việt (Bahasa Vietnam)
Українська (Bahasa Ukraina)
Laporkan kesalahan penerjemahan
Pedoman dan Aturan Diskusi
Laporkan postingan ini
In short : put weight directly on the powered axle's. This creates more traction.
So don't use semi-trailers without an occupied cargo slot right above the powered wheels. Since some RWD and even open diff trucks seem to be dedicated semi trailer tractors not picking stepdeck semi trailers that have no load above the 5th wheel is important here,
The flip side is when you unload the cargo you probably get stuck.
I bought Snowrunner to experience something I can't IRL, Off Road trucking, with trucks that are designed for doing just that, yet continuously devs only deliver either highway trucks that just don't fit in this game or unlicensed Soviet trucks modified to avoid copyright issues
So please guide me how to drive an RWD highway truck off-road without illogical and senseless frustration that doesn't belong in the entertainment (gaming) industry
So i need to put weight to search for cargo? But the game is all about go to pick up a cargo accross the map...
You answered your own question :-)
You need to carefully plan to use highway trucks off road, and it serves no other purpose that challenge yourself if you come to find AWD trucks boring.
Seek inspiration in the documentaries ( on YT also ) "worlds most dangerous roads"
You will see piss poor drivers in piss poor countries that can't afford to construct paved roads in ridiculous rough landscapes and hart stopping dangerous mountain roads. Many actually die when driving on such roads, and there is no such thing as an ambulance or hospital might you have survived an accident with horrendous wounds.
And they frequently have......just regular RWD trucks that we in the "West" might only encounter in a museum. With these underpowered and fuel guzzling trucks they plow through mud, snow, gravel, sand, cross rivers just like in game and may die from a kilometer fall when sliding off the "road"
When these old trucks break down - which worn out, old and taxed to beyond the limit they willl - these guys will have to be a mechanic on the spot themselves too, and a rusty replacement part may cost them their months wages to have in reserve. These guys would decline a modern brand new truck if you gifted it to them, as they cannot repair it.
Then again these guys are often the most important and most influential person in their village. The game offers some examples of such desolate environments.
Nothing like the lowly worm a driver in the "West" with his modern truck is though. It has it's up sides being a driver/truck owner in a piss poor country i guess.
You might enjoy video's where in rural Pakistan or India they remove truck gearboxes and engines without heavy tools or lifts and while crouched with sandals on in the sand and dirt rework such worn machines to running condition again. It is amazing what they can do.
Okey so they have nothing to do, you use this trucks for easy mission... but lot a mission have no easy roads (Its in the name Mud/Snowrunner).
Why they don't give us a AWD and a RWD trucks in dual pack? or just give the choice to put AWD or not.
I play with RWD, and they are no real tips for drive this trucks in Mud, just avoid mud, snow, rocks,...
Guess which truck I used the last time I went to Amur? Hint: it was a rear-wheel drive Highway class truck, and it pulled a loaded semi-trailer just fine. For mud and snow, a truck needs to be loaded and needs to have sufficient ground clearance to not drag the chassis. Wiggling the steering left and right will help you cross the deeper spots if you start to get stuck. You should avoid anything deeper than axle height regardless of whether you're doing RWD or AWD. Swamps are also to be avoided whenever possible. The choice of tires is very important: get dirt-bias tires (like UOD3, ATMD3 or OHD2) for dirt and rocks, get mud-bias tires (ATMD2, UOD2, OHD1) for snow/mud and preferably thinner tires so that they can cut into solid layer. If you're driving the Pacific P16, Pacific P512PF or Kenworth W990, keep the stock tires.
Rock fields are bad, but can be negotiable. This breaks down to two separate instances. If you are able to build up momentum, this will help you get over rocks or push them out of the way (High Gear us useful here). If you have to go slow, then it is mostly a case of having a truck with a wide steering radius (for more precision), as much ground clearance as possible, and either an advanced winch or an extended range winch. Rock fields should be avoided when possible regardless of whether you're doing AWD or RWD, since the rocks can get caught on trailers or other truck elements (even retracted crane legs or undercarriage spare wheels) and will often cause damage to the trucks.
I've seen Beast of War describe the method in multiple posts. I've also made a bunch of posts regarding this. He's the one who gave me the idea to do the tests that showed me how important the load balancing was.
Some models are less forgiving than others. Try a Pacific P16 unladen and you'll see how it'll hold your hand, since the chassis already is designed to concentrate a lot of weight on the rear and it also comes with special tires. The T880 is the most finnicky I've seen in this regard, even the Ford CLT that doesn't have differential locks and that can't take OHD tires, is more forgiving of the traction based on mass distribution, than the T880.
Then you put medium logs on the T880 and it suddenly unlocks its magic powers that make it effortlessly climb a 40-degree slope without winching or slowing down and for like 8-10 L/min of fuel, that the AWD Pacific P12 made for heavy loads and logs, can't do without winching and without desperately guzzling 25 L/min of fuel.
You could grab a few boxes of service spare parts or the likes, keep them by the garage, put them on your trucks if needed, then ditch them at the cargo loading destination. Light cranes can be beneficial on some of these trucks since you increase the truck mass while getting utility out of the crane. As a general rule, you want to keep the front end light and the rear end heavy, so longer cab form factors tend to benefit more from the cranes, whereas for shorter cabs most of the crane weight will go towards the front (undesirable). The exception is when the crane pushes the cargo bed backwards, cause that actually gives you an even bigger boost since more of the cargo mass will then go to the driving wheels when you load the truck.
There was a time I drove a W990 (rear wheel drive) to Island Lake for some delivery. I had it set up with a light crane and a cargo bed. Then the host activated the contract to retrieve the drills from the three locations in that map.
I grabbed some metal beams that somebody had abandoned there after flipping, put them on the W990, and that gave me the necessary traction boost to pull the 4-slot trailer that could carry the cargo drill.
I was able to pull that trailer in High Gear across most stretches of the map. At the spots where I had to slow down due to mud pools, Low Gear provided the needed traction.
I even winched a drill through the swamp since the bridge hadn't been built. Any truck gets stuck in that squishy mess; I've done that same swamp crossing with more offroad-capable trucks and they didn't get enough traction either, and I've even seen people get Mastodons stuck there. While I still needed the winch, I got better traction with the W990 than with the Paystar with specialized mud tires, and better than with with the Derry 4xxx also with specialized mud tires.
Looks like we're gonna have to post an instructions guide for rear wheel drive truck driving.
You should be avoiding deep mud, snow-covered bottomless mud holes, and river crossings, even if you're driving AWD. Anything deeper than axle-height is undesirable IRL and in-game.
Doing mud pits IRL will corrode trucks if you're not serious about removing the mud, the mud can get into seals and foul lubricants, and it can splash into the alternator and corrode the coils.
Water submersion can cause damage if you don't wait for the truck to cool down before entering the water, as the rapid cooling of the parts essentially becomes an unwanted form of heat treatment. Water that gets into anything electrical can mess with it, and even if it's just moisture that seeps in, that can start corroding things and give you headaches later.
Then there's water ingestion, which is handled a bit unrealistically in-game since the snorkels alone don't waterproof a vehicle: you need to seal your entire electrical system (including your alternator), the entire snorkel tube (some tubes have drain holes for rainwater or are multi-piece units with gaps), you have to seal the airbox, and also the tubes from the airbox to the engine. You also would have to extend and relocate the transmission and differential breathers, or water is gonna get in.
Then there's the chassis length and ground clearance, with affect the approach, departure, and breakover angles. Trucks tend to be longer vehicles, which is bad if you lack sufficient ground clearance. Then you run into more problems when you increase the clearance because you've raised the center of gravity and now the truck becomes less stable.
While we do have some vehicles in-game that are designed to operate in places where you shouldn't be taking any vehicles into, we don't actually have that many of those. I'm talking about things like the Burlak, and the Azov Antarctic, some of the Tatras. Most trucks are either designed for enhanced capabilities offroad, or adapted to incorporate some enhanced off-road features that they weren't designed for. And the most specialized trucks tend not to be very good at doing the things that they're not specialized for.
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3426511087
I am replaying Kola peninsula right now, and the Mack pack happened to drop now so i get to use it in some less favorable environments.
These trucks may not be AWD and they may not have superior stat tires ( yet ) but putting the weight on the driven axles still holds true. And diff lock makes them far more usable then open diff trucks where the wheels sink in deeper, but you will likely have to reduce wheel speed to make optimal use of that. So no gearboxes without at least an L gear when using diff lock. L- is even better :-)
I did a few tests yesterday with the TerraPro at that same spot from the screenshots. Got it across the ice but somebody winched me on the snow hill climb to the warehouse so I couldn't get conclusive results.
Having said that, when things get bad, driving them in reverse is a thing. That helps plenty when it's impossible to avoid rocks or when you have to do very aggressive climbs on hills with snow.
Did you get to try the all-terrains? I also tested the Pinnacle again in the second map in Alaska yesterday and took it through some pretty aggressive areas with the all-terrains. Remember the twisting snow/dirt climb west from the entrance? I did that climb from the warehouse while loaded with 2 concrete blocks and 1 cement bundle on the truck frame, and some medium pipes on a 2-unit trailer (the one with 2 axles).
It was complicated because of the truck length, and I did have to detach the trailer several times for repositioning or for building up momentum, but it did get to pull off the climb with the all-terrains, and loaded with all of that stuff.
Thank you for your hard work in testing these DLC trucks and your interesting report (seriously), but I'm a mediocre ♥♥♥♥♥ who doesn't know nor wants to learn to drive rear wheel drive trucks offroad so I'll give these a miss. I have plenty of other trucks already, even though I don't use half of them!
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3427721959
( the change of daylight already gives away how long this took :-)))
This is one of the worst roads i can think of ( that does not have large stones in the mud or snow which RWD trucks can't handle ) since you need to crack the ice and push yourself through mud and snow but the ice shards give you additional drag. This is way worse then a mud road.
I won't say it's performance is acceptable, but i do say was able to creep through it without using the winch. Though i was tempted many times. This merely shows with a load on the driven axles it won't truly get stuck definitely.
Anyone that has driven the Spintires ZIL and knows how to wiggle the front wheels so the truck gets moving again, can do as i did here. Sometimes backing up and taking a slightly other course is needed. You really need L- as well.
Was it enjoyable ? Hell no. Would i consider to use this truck here again ? Hell no :-))) I had to tow it over the large stones ahead to reach the solid ice ( which are the true roads there ofc ) and it's it's destination, so it really was not a suitable choice.
I think their usability could change a lot with buffed tires like the W990 later got and the P512 always had. I kind of expect them to get such tires.