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I started to do my own tests, because almost any video with info you can find focuses on speed and while speed is great, playing in hardmode it's way more important that the truck is stable, fuel efficient, goes through everything and has a decent range of options, so I can run it independently from other trucks, tipping over or getting stuck is huge waste of time and money in hard mode, so you want the most reliable trucks you can get.
For the testing, I make a backup of my save and later reset it.
For anyone interested here's a list of the trucks that stood out:
Nr.1 : Tayga, Don't think I need to say much about it, its strong, fast, has a large tank, decent fuel consumption and excellent stability. Limited options are the 1 downside. (running it with standard gearbox, because the other aren't needed and only increase fuel consumption)
Nr.2: Azov 64131, To be honest I was a little surprised, I didn't think the Azov would do as well as it did in the test, but it absolutely crushed it. It just hits that sweetspot of mass, power, options and stability. Downside is the very low speed on sections where you could drive fast. Also it can get hard stuck in deep mud, even with disconnected trailer (Tayga literally can't)
Nr.3: Voron D-53233, Similar to the Tayga, Standard with offroad gearbox. Needs alot of fuel, but is very powerful, fast and stands out because it can have crane+flatbed+trailer, which is extremely useful, especially on a capable offroad truck. It can tip over easily with raised suspension, so you might want to switch to standard suspension and smaller tires if you go into a hilly area.
Nr.4: Kolob 74760, Was by far the strongest puller through the mud and river, it also has a good sized tank and decent speed. The only downsides are it's enormous size and 0 options. If you need to pull a trailer or anything that goes on a high saddle, this thing will do it.
Nr.5: Voron AE+Grad, Both of them are similar to the Tayga, very strong, decent fuel consumption, good speed and better options than the Tayga. Would buy any of them instead of a second Tayga, because of better options (mainly Crane+Flatbed)
Nr.6: Azov 73210, This thing will get anything, anywhere, downsides are that it's slow and even slower because it tends to get hung up on it's low bumper. DLC has an active suspension for it, but at the moment I'm only testing base game vehicles with base games options. But even in base game it's just such a good option: Crane+Flatbed+Trailer, low fuel consumption, extremely strong and cheap for what it is.
Negative mentions:
Dan 96320: It just sucked on the route and was unpleasant to drive. It gets hung up on the low bumper, had problems getting around turns and problems getting traction.
P12: For a heavy hauler this thing sucked ass on the route, it struggled in just about every section, which was really sad, because it has alot of options including the much better red crane.
Azov 5319: The 5319 as a negative mention is kind of heartbreaking, because it is a kick ass truck, lots of options, strong, fast and also almost out of fuel before it makes it back to the garage. If it wasn't hard mode, I'd recommend it 100%, in hard mode the bad fuel economy kills it.
I'm leaving out alot of trucks I tested that were unremarkable and ofcourse this is all opinion based, but that's my findings so far. I tested alot more trucks and alot just did ok without standing out like the Royal BM17, which is a GREAT truck, but suffers enormously from not having mud tires. It still did ok, but because of the lack of traction, not as good as the other options. I didn't test any of the highway or heavy duty trucks yet, which will probably be my next test.
For the time being, that's limits my Offroad trucks to just the International Paystar 5070 and the Voron Grad. I know everyone's falling over themselves about the Voron D, but I'd rather not have permanent difflock and AWD. Step 310E might be a decent contender but I'd need to find it first. Still dealing with Alaska.
For Heavy trucks, I'm less discering about addons. My favourite truck remains the Twinsteer and that has not a single one :) Huge fan of the Derry Longhorn 4520, just because it looks badass and has front-and-rear steering. Nice, tight turning circles. I do also have A Kolob 74941 for towing stuff and a Azov 73210 because... Well, it's a Heavy truck with 7 axels and full addon capability. Probably go back to Kola after I'm done with Alaska to grab that active suspension.
I sold all of my Highway and Heavy Duty trucks, too. Don't see the point. Doing just a Yar for scout and trying to set up a Hummer. Not a fan of the Yar's always-on difflock, but it's not like I have a lot of choice there. Most of this game's scouts suck ass.
I applaud your entrepreneurial spirit and inquisitive mind.
It is much more interesting to conduct experiments yourself and find out which truck is good and in what conditions it is good, as well as what tasks it is able to perform and what tasks it will be difficult to cope with.
I advise everyone to act like this guy - you will get much more pleasure than by the way the author of the topic wants - just to look at the numbers of indicators and not use the brain at all
As the author of the topic, I take issue with that. For one thing, the person you're quoting cited a route in a zone that I don't have access to yet. By the time I get to it, I'm not going to have a use for comparing trucks any more. There's merit to comparing trucks in real time as they unlock. The game released on Steam just recently. Not all of us have the luxury of being at end-game with everything unlocked and easily available.
Secondly, what you're describing takes a tremendous amount of time just to gather basic information. As someone who's attempted to do this very thing and given up on it entirely, I can tell you with confidence that I got no "pleasure" from it. This game is already plenty grindy without also requiring me to additionally grind for basic stats comparisons. Denying players the information necessary to make infored decisions unless we do the datamining ourselves doesn't lead to "pleasure." It leads to a significant time investment.
Finally, can you be any more crass and rude? I outline a reasoning by which I choosse my trucks - reasoning which is fundamentally solid for the most part - and you respond by insulting my intelligence. What purpose does this serve?
That's a fair point - all of these features aren't always NEEDED, strictly speaking. Hell, my favourite scout by far is the Yar and that breaks one of my first rules of toggle diff lock. However, I found that "list" to be a neat way to pair down truck selection quite a bit, down to just a small handful of machines I can actually test out first-hand without too much issue. Some trucks just look too cool to not grab - like the Azov 42-20 Antarctic. That's a pretty machine regardless of the always-on diff lock.
I'm personally a creature of order, though. I like to think that the decisions I make are made for a reason, rather than arbitrarily - tennuous as that reason might be. Picking those basic requirements put quite a bit of order into my garage and paired it down to just the stuff I'm actually going to use.
As to scouts... it's true that you can often use Offroad trucks in their place. I spent a lot of time trying to make the Chevy work and it just frustrated me in the long run. One of my requirements for Scouts, however, is "able to tow scout trailers." I have the Radar Trailer from Kola now and have made extensive use of it. Unlike in Michigan where Watchtowers cover most everything on the map, later campaigns have a lot of room to explore and that makes it SO much easier. Sure, I can just keep referencing Maprunner and get around that, but it's still neat to have.
Incidenally, that's why I gave up on the Ford F 750. I'm sure that would have been a perfectly serviceable truck once I got a decent engine into it, but I had no real use for that. It could only tow Truck trailers, and I have better trucks to do that with. I've no idea why that even counts as a "scout" in the first place give that it really doesn't behave like one. That's where the game's somewhat arbitrary truck classification fails, I think. Someone mentioned that trucks are classed by weight, rather than function and it certainly seems so.
I just wish I'd known how interchangeable a lot of trucks are earlier in my experience. Would have saved me some research.
I'm a creature of variety so I like to try out stuff even if I know it's awful most of the time.
For all maps:
- Truck must have all wheel drive (exception for stuff like the P16 which has cheaty tires)
- Truck must have diff lock
For mud maps, any truck that equip dedicated mud tires
For snow maps, any truck that can equip chains (supposedly all chained tires are the same)
Other considerations:
- The taller the truck, the easier it is to roll over
- Truck width can add stability, but make it hard to get through tight spots
- Engine power is big factor in some maps (P12 is gutless)
- Fuel tank capacity is something that should be noted as well.
- Ability to equip addons
- Any non-drive axle is a detriment
- Turning speed and radius can be important
When you add up all the above, the Azov 5319, Khan 39, KRS 58 Bandit, Tayga 6436 and any of the Voron trucks are my go to trucks. The White and GMC MH9500 are very good on Michigan, but run into issues when the mud gets real deep. I don't have the Zikz yet, but it would probably make the list.
For the most part, yes. Someone dug into the game files and found tire resistance values here. Something to note is that Chains are actually not very good in dirt, and "snow" appears to be recoloured dirt. As such, I've made it a point to use Mud tires on most snow maps. Yes, they're awful on the frozen roads, but most snow maps barely have any roads to speak of. Mud tires allow for much better traversal of offroad conditions, since most of the terrain in Alaska and Kola is soft snow or mud.
This is one reason I ended up diqualifying my Western Star 49X. It's an all-around great truck (given I paid money for it), but it lacks mud tires altogether, which makes it far harder to use outside of Wisconsin.
How do you judge engine power, by the way? I know there's a "power-to-weight" ratio, but that's not JUST engine power... isn't it? I thought high power-to-weight could mean both a powerful engine and a light vehicle. Or does PtW quite literally define pulling power? That could simplify my search a little bit.
Most of those are DLC, but they do look like good vehicles. I'll try them out in due time :) I'm trying not to rely on Russian vehicles TOO much quite yet as I don't have access to their upgrades at this time. Seems like you don't mind always-on AWD/Diff, though, from the looks of it. Fair enough. I'll grab a few of those myself - can't keep off forever.
The only DLC recommendations are the Khan 39, KRS 58 Bandit and the GMC with AWD. The Bandit is somewhat of a novelty and isn't needed, while the Khan can be replaced with the Yar quite easily.
As far as engine power, maprunner has a link to a vehicle torque to mass ratio calculator where you can get the torque. If you want to spreadsheet it and account for the cargo, then add about 12000 on to the mass number. From the calculator, even with the top of the line engine for the P12 is 210K torque, while it weighs 20K. The P512 has the same engine and weighs about half as much (11.5K) and you can tell it in game.
There's some aspect to it that I don't fully understand, I think. Initially it seemed like torque wasn't AS important since the majority of navigation issues I was having was lack of grip. Tires turn, but just dig themselves down. With mud tires, however, there seems to be enough friction to actually bottom out a truck's engine, especially with a heavy load, so now I AM actually running into torque issues. Wheels refuse to turn.
I think what would help is if the game actually showed us PtW with a load. It does for certain addons, but doesn't for trailers or packed cargo. Sure, I CAN check online (thanks for the tips, by the way), but that's a bit clunky to keep having to alt-tab. If I hooked up to, say, a Drill Rig and saw my PtW plummet into nothing, I'd know my truck is too weak BEFORE I get to a steep hill :)
I guess PtW is useful to some extent. I just need to be aware that heavier trucks' PtW will be affected by cargo less than that of lighter trucks as it constitutes a smaller relative increase to their weight.