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Apparently this is some kind of rice disease, so I tried to get fertilizer with an increased immunity status, but somehow it didn't help much.
I'll try your way: 3
After some testing, I figured out the exact steps in order to get lower/almost completely remove the negative status of the Bakanae disease before the start of the new season.
1. Before starting a new sowing, all the operations described below should be performed strictly during the day in sunny weather.
2. Sort seeds with any amount of mud, plant seeds thinly in the box.
3. It is advisable to do soil cultivation and cleaning field from stones on the last day of winter during cool sunny weather.
4. And most importantly, what I noticed is that the open door(while tilling field) of the water release from the field definitely affects the disposal/lowering of the negative status.
Which is quite logical considering that the disease is caused by a certain mold. And mold does not appear where it is dry, light and cool and there is no excess liquid.
And yes, perhaps sorting with salt also affects, but I did not test it, only with mud.
1) Weather and Time make NO difference to the status. I was able to reduce it to 0 in any weather, rain or shine at any time
2) You can do it with mud only. I haven't unlocked salt.
3) It's independent of the tilling. I've been able to do it before or after with or without fetilizer.
4) More mud doesn't CAUSE the disease or damage the seeds. Not sure about salt though.
5) Bakanae bar seems to be a ratio of seeds that have the disease and don't. By sorting the seeds, you affect the ratio; if you sort badly, the proportion of good to bad seeds decreases so the bar gets bigger. Your seeds start off with an innate ratio that doesn't seem to change (based on the bar length when you don't sort at all). Basically, this means that if you sort poorly, you actually REMOVE more good seeds than bad ones.
6) The speed you stir and for how long DOES seem to have an affect on the sorting. It's rather inconsistent but it seems that the more mud you add in at once, the slower you should stir over a longer period of time. This isn't very consistent though so I could be wrong but seems to be based on the fact that if you stir too fast, good seeds get knocked up with bad ones and the density doesn't differentiate between good and bad seeds in the air, it's just that bad seeds are more likely to go up. But once they're up they're up
7) The amount of mud you add at once matters A LOT. Basically, the more mud you add in one go, the worse your shorting will be and the higher the disease ratio is.
Conclusion:
The most consistent way I've found to have a 0 disease bar is to add in a small amount of mud and stir at a medium pace until no more seeds come up. Then repeat till the end. By small amount I mean like 10% a go. It works fairly consistently but does take some time.
If you do this, as you reach the bottom of the jar, fewer seeds will be knocked up since all the bad ones were removed at the top while the good heavy seeds stayed down. When I did it by adding 1/3 or even 1/5 of the jar and stirring it slowly over a long period, it was very inconsistent resultswise and a lot of seeds were pushed up during the last batch of mud.
If you just want a low disease bar though, 1/5th of the mud pot is probably the way to go, though sometimes the disease bar is at 0% and sometimes at 40% but usually it's around 10-20% with the 1/5th method.
Also I'm not sure what unlocked Salt as an option instead of Mud, I think it was just having a lot of Salt in my inventory since I kept buying it from trades lately. Alternatively it was because I passed 50 rice level previous year.