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Rudder pedals return a single axis where car pedals return 3, but two axis of pedals can be combined easily (software) to return a single axis.
Racers very commonly upgrade from their original pedals as common wisdom says that you gain more lap time from better pedals that from a better wheel, so you might find a used set for very little.
I also just thought that maybe the brakes on the rudder pedals might work and rudder pedals (pressing the toes downward.
But I think the the brakes may just be a simple button command without any gradual pressure making any difference, if so setting the different sides to rudders might result in full deflection only. I will check it out for sure.
Thank you for the reply.
One of many approaches to combining axis, I don't know if its how a smart guy would do it but it worked perfectly for me and I've never looked back:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx8ZGP_BWcU&t=612s
Thanks, I will give that a try, the Thrustmaster TFRP rudder pedals are useless for me.
The brakes (push down on the toes of the pedals) seemed like they were going to work but even though they were adjustable in the sensitivities and had some action to them, not just full deflection, they would deflect the opposite direction at first, etc...
The rudder pedals are going into the trash.
I am familiar with vjoy, and was looking at my racing pedals and they have a multi pin connection that plugs in underneath my steering wheel control. I'd have no idea where to get a cable to convert it to a USB.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNr6NXa9Wlk
I have found the pedals I want, the VKB T-Rudders MKVI.
They are friction less, all metal, have the VKB quality, your toes push down on them as opposed to having your whole foot sliding back and forth (So you have more fine control) no toe brakes (Although they can be added with other software I think) but that is not a deal breaker for me.
Rave reviews, and only $215.
I went through two TM 16000 sticks with sticking and faulty buttons in not time, and my old Sidewinder still works but is not highly accurate, but for less than $100 the VKB Gladiator is rock solid, I could not believe the difference.
My racing pedals have different pressures required for them so even if they had a USB cable on them it would feel weird.
Pedals:
https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=vkb-t-rudders-mk-iv
Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=vkb+t-rudder+mk+iv
http://derekspearedesigns.com/dsd-pedal-pal.html
which requires an additional ADC boare
http://derekspearedesigns.com/12-bit-controllers.html
or
http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=97&products_id=187
which gets the job done by itself for a lot less.
But if you can afford the VKB you'd no doubt like that solution a lot more, buy them and never look back. I had a set of Saitek Combat pedals, same action as your Thrustmaster set and pretty low quality, sold them for quite a bit due to the MSFS price impacts...my investment went up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4tV97eKLyk
He mentions the MFG Crosswind as a cheaper alternative to these he used £243
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6mukkJR0mg
I like a wide stance and a full foot platform so these would be my choice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXqHUsm0cho&t=78s
I really don't even mind using a twist rudder either, but pedals would be nice.
I doubt if Macman's solution will work as it seems like the rails on the rudder pedals are a bit bigger than the throttle and you'd have to model and 3d print the linear bearing mounts for the pedals anyway.
I've got the same rudder pedals and so far mine are working pretty good, but based on my experience with the throttle I'm sort of planning ahead for what to do when they don't. (my stick twist axis quit so the rudders ar the only option)
First thing I'd do is pull the rails out and make sure everything is clean and dry. If you've tried to lube them and you've got carpet lint stuck to the lube, that could be causing part of your problems. If you do use lube, you should use a light silicon based lube and not a grease.
You might also want to try to find a lighter centering spring so you don't have to push so hard to move them. (this will make holding them centered without taking your feet off harder.
You mentioned using the toe brakes and they are analog axis, but I'm not sure how you could configure that for rudder in MSFS since it seems to want a single axis for rudder and those are 2 separate axis. This may be why you were getting a reverse rudder action on the toe brakes. The game wants the center of the axis to be the center of the rudder so not pushing the toe brake would be full deflection 1 way, half way depressed would be the center and fully depressed would be full deflection the other way.