Stay away from using a Pagani Zonda Revolucion and Hammerdal Strale S

[Drakgo]

So I finally got my hands on a Pagani Zonda Revolucion in my playthrough and built it up to a 100.75% tune and was excited to play it in a 1 mile drag race and the whooole roster was just High tuned Hammerdal Strale s/Thoor which proceeded wreck me every time in round 1 unless i was facing another Zonda. I then found myself a Hammerdal Strale S and tuned it to 120.10% and went to the 1 mile drag race again which once again the roster was nothing but Hammerdal's which once again proceeded to wreck me again in round 1 because they were higher tunes then my car.

It is really annoying where it is just better to stay away from the Revolucion or the Hammerdal since the AI will just destroy you everytime.

I have a Porche Carrera GT with a 97.59% tune and can win the 1 miles championships because the roster is more varied some Pagani Zonda Revolucion maybe A Hammerdal with a much lower tune and other Porche Carrera GT's amd some other sport cars.

The balance is so off it isn't even fair when you get your hands on a Revolucion or Strale S and there is no variation what so ever in the cars either which sucks.

Get a Revolucion your roster would be heavy Hammerdal Strale S/Thoor with maybe 1 or 2 other Revolucion's. Get a Hammerdal Strale S and all you are facing is Hammerdal Strale S with maybe one thoor and maaaaayyybe one Revolucion if you are even lucky with the line up but it is mostly always Hammerdal Strale S's.

Edit- After a bunch of testing with max tunes, I will still say to stay away from the Revolucion and Hammerdal Strale S (Standard) and only get them to flip, You will get crushed by a line up that is nothing but Hammerdal's and they will crush you especially when you are in the Revolucion. The AI does use custom gearing when the cars is Tuned and not the default gears that I hear most people say and have had confirmation with some help of another user on this.

If you were to use a Hammerdal strale S I would recommend the Thoor Version and max its tune by 3 starring all of the best performance parts, You will bebable to beat the Standard version at max tune, beating other Thoors would require a bit of gear tuning but not really much.

TDLR- Just rebuild Revolucion and Hammerdal strale S to flip not to drag because you will always lose, unless it is a Hammerdal Strale S Thoor get to max tune and you can drag it.

[Omega]

I would try adjusting the gear ratio's 1 mile drag's are harder to win, i usually stick with 1/4 mile. It might be you need more gears? But yeah agreed. Hammerdale's and Pagani's are the fastest vehicles in the game basically and you're right.

Thats why i drag race with my Jaguar F-Type. Has the best acceleration for its tuning without having to adjust much. Also i don't think payouts change at all no matter what size track you use.

Hope this helps!

[astrofelix59]

What works for me:
For the high octane cars they have the grunt to pull from down low so less gears are better, you lose precious hundredths of seconds with each change.
A.I. are stuck with default ratios, so tweaking the gearbox you should be able to beat them, when all else matches. Usually takes me 10 or more runs tweaking the gears before I get it right or close to.
Primary concern is getting the right "final ratio" so you can stick the launch. Getting halfway down the track before the other guy is better than having +20MPH higher top speed.

For rear wheel drive best to run the cheapest skinniest tires on the front, helps keep car straight and apply more traction to the rear wheels.

Go to "Workshop" and get Ford Mustang RTR Hoonicorn V4 or Lancer Evo Time Attack both by DeadBob 777. AWD traction goodness and buckets of grunt.
Evo runs less than 7 seconds on the quarter and less than 18 on the mile. (also less than 1:10 lap on Race Track, though not with the same gear ratios)

Personally I find B class and low A class cars to be more fun and a challenge down to the wire, where a gear change can make or break a race.

[Drakgo]

Originally posted by astrofelix59:

What works for me:
For the high octane cars they have the grunt to pull from down low so less gears are better, you lose precious hundredths of seconds with each change.
A.I. are stuck with default ratios, so tweaking the gearbox you should be able to beat them, when all else matches. Usually takes me 10 or more runs tweaking the gears before I get it right or close to.
Primary concern is getting the right "final ratio" so you can stick the launch. Getting halfway down the track before the other guy is better than having +20MPH higher top speed.

For rear wheel drive best to run the cheapest skinniest tires on the front, helps keep car straight and apply more traction to the rear wheels.

Go to "Workshop" and get Ford Mustang RTR Hoonicorn V4 or Lancer Evo Time Attack both by DeadBob 777. AWD traction goodness and buckets of grunt.
Evo runs less than 7 seconds on the quarter and less than 18 on the mile. (also less than 1:10 lap on Race Track, though not with the same gear ratios)

Personally I find B class and low A class cars to be more fun and a challenge down to the wire, where a gear change can make or break a race.

I looked up gear ratios and everything online but they never seem to match up to my own stuff (probably due to updates and stuff) but I try to match it and even tho some stuff does work with the Hammerdal and Revolucion it doesnt even matter, I usually have larger tires in the rears 22" on both the Revolucion and Hammerdal because they have sooo much power that a standard 20" isn't enough. and I don't have mods/workshop stuff kinda kept my first play-through vanilla it is just silly how busted it seems once getting the "best cars in the game" as the AI just wipes the floor with you with the Hammerdal's that is usually tuned higher then what I could do at the moment since i dont have enough scrap to get a full 3 star parts car.

The Carrera GT seems pretty balanced out with the drag races as I would probably only lose if I miss shift or something and the roster is other GTs, knock off Ferrari's and some Zondas with maybe a Hammerdal that is much lower tuned, which is honestly pretty fair but the others doesnt even matter with perfect shifts.

My weak point is figuring out gear ratios/final gear and stuff i can't understand them at all no matter how much research or trying I do. Especially on the race track the cars has so much power that they just slide like they are on ice that i gotta put large slick tires on the rear and even then it can still slide around like it is on ice and no matter how i change the gears it seems to make it worse then default.

But I appreciate the advice n stuff and the recommendations to the workshop stuff I was bumed that there was no Mitsubishi cars like the Evos.

[astrofelix59]

Actually been a while since I've done some drag races, will have crack at some hammerdale builds over the next couple of days and see what I come up with. I will be changing the front wheels but will keep the rear to the stock dimensions (slicks). Get back to you early next week.

The Carrera is going to feel a bit easier as it's AWD, so more traction for the launch and the V10 has some go. It's not so good on the Race Track as AWD has a inherent under-steer problem, so it struggles with the tight corners at speed.
Jag F type is also AWD, so same deal.

[Drakgo]

Originally posted by astrofelix59:

Actually been a while since I've done some drag races, will have crack at some hammerdale builds over the next couple of days and see what I come up with. I will be changing the front wheels but will keep the rear to the stock dimensions (slicks). Get back to you early next week.

The Carrera is going to feel a bit easier as it's AWD, so more traction for the launch and the V10 has some go. It's not so good on the Race Track as AWD has a inherent under-steer problem, so it struggles with the tight corners at speed.
Jag F type is also AWD, so same deal.

Yea i need to change up my Carrerra wheels for the race track probably I put 22"s on the rear and 20"s on my Zonda Revolucion and it did pretty well on the race track because stock was a nightmare on the handling. It is just the drag races that is annoying when using them because the AI will just destroy you round 1 with over 120%+ tunes of the Hammerdals just gets off putting on using those cars for the drag strip tbh and seem only to be there to flip for huge profits at that point.

[astrofelix59]

Generally I make separate versions of each car to suit each track (including mod tracks), so I don't have to stuff around when I've got it right. Gear ratios and level of tuning need to be different for Tiaga Fiorio compared to Race Track, and mostly cars suitable for Drag Strip don't fare well on the tight tracks, right tool for the job kind of thing.

Profit ... wait til you get into the mod world, Ferrari 250 GTO sells for around 40 million but you're going to need 5 million in the bank just to pick up a 1% health frame with barely any usable parts. Some I have show 30-35% NET profit, I don't sell them just collect them, as something to do with my huge bank account.

[Drakgo]

Originally posted by astrofelix59:

Generally I make separate versions of each car to suit each track (including mod tracks), so I don't have to stuff around when I've got it right. Gear ratios and level of tuning need to be different for Tiaga Fiorio compared to Race Track, and mostly cars suitable for Drag Strip don't fare well on the tight tracks, right tool for the job kind of thing.

Profit ... wait til you get into the mod world, Ferrari 250 GTO sells for around 40 million but you're going to need 5 million in the bank just to pick up a 1% health frame with barely any usable parts. Some I have show 30-35% NET profit, I don't sell them just collect them, as something to do with my huge bank account.

Yea i figured the gear ratios would be different for tracks but seem like the game wants large slick tires at higher horse power and torque because race tires would literally act like it is on ice, and I was surprised that the Zonda's, Carrera GT and some other super/hyper cars didnt sell for millions in vanilla game play TBH so I can imagine that prices for mods/workshop vehicles is a bit more realistic then the actual game.

It is a decent game with some quirks over all but name me a game that doesn't have quirks lol.

[Drakgo]

So I went into my "just build" file (where I have unlimited money and stuff) and got the Hammerdal Strale S on there 3 starred every part getting the tune to 156.13% I had faster 0-50,0-100,100-150, and 100-200 and still lost to the same care with the same tuning What am i not understanding here? because I am starting to think that the AI's actually dont use default gear ratios. I top out at like 400km/h or so and the AI car always pulls ahead.

I tested it using default gears and with some custom gears i have faster 0-50, 0-100.100-150 and 100-200....still got beat.

I even dropped the AI tuning down to 145.08% vs my 156.13% tuning just to see what would happen and it still beats me. Pretty sure AI Hammerdal Strale S just cheats reeeallllly hard.

[astrofelix59]

Correction re 250 GTO, not 30-35% NET, 30-35 million about 500% NET.

Had a couple of quick runs but will need to do more to it over the weekend, still need a lot of work on the ratios.
Got TRS up to +167.51% with aftermarket mods will need to remove them to bring it back to stock !56%. (I get carried away)
Running low 8's on the quarter and low 18's on the mile, with a bit of a slow launch so I don't lose traction, only just beating matched car by ~.300's on the marks past the 1000 point. Crossing the mile at 298 mph/479kph, a little bit faster on all points than opponent.
Q 8.008@208 Vs 8.428@202
M 18.384@298 Vs 19.071@286
I like it close but I still like to win.

When I nail the launch ratio should get down to 7.5 on the Q at least. Anyway more later when I've done the rebuild, and will pass on ratios and specs.

Have fun

[Drakgo]

Originally posted by astrofelix59:

Correction re 250 GTO, not 30-35% NET, 30-35 million about 500% NET.

Had a couple of quick runs but will need to do more to it over the weekend, still need a lot of work on the ratios.
Got TRS up to +167.51% with aftermarket mods will need to remove them to bring it back to stock !56%. (I get carried away)
Running low 8's on the quarter and low 18's on the mile, with a bit of a slow launch so I don't lose traction, only just beating matched car by ~.300's on the marks past the 1000 point. Crossing the mile at 298 mph/479kph, a little bit faster on all points than opponent.
Q 8.008@208 Vs 8.428@202
M 18.384@298 Vs 19.071@286
I like it close but I still like to win.

When I nail the launch ratio should get down to 7.5 on the Q at least. Anyway more later when I've done the rebuild, and will pass on ratios and specs.

Have fun

Yeeeaaa i figured i'd try on free build mode pretty much and yeeeaaa even maxed out I lose pretty hard and I am getting perfect shifts. They seem to hit the NoS button or something like half way through the race or something, I dont think AI is using default either as I went with default gearing and you would think that it would be neck and neck all the way through but nope the AI gets a hella speed boost and just blows me outta the water. Soo I feel like i debunked the "they use default" or if they do the game just cheats and gives them a speed boost they shouldn't have. I put 235/35/20" on the front and 335/25/22" in the back for wheels (i know i got the back right i may have gotten the front wrong off the top of my head). But yeeeaaaa.... I am at a huuuuge loss even when I got ahead they would just get an unatural burst of speed really silly. Even lowered the tune by like 10% and the 145% seemed waaayyyy faster then the 156% tuned version XD Like I dont mind close as well but the AI seems straight up unfair as it is never "close" with my testings

So I tested a fully upgraded Zonda Revolucion 130%+ tune in my freebuild save as well and it isn't even close the Hammerdal strale S is a haaaard counter to the Revolucion, it has to be a much lower tune to win anything higher (which it will be) the Revolucion will get smoked every time.

Tested out the Hammerdal Strale S Thoor with 148.72% tune (maxed) and managed to beat the 156.13% tuned Hammerdal Strale S as well as the 148.72% Thoor version Ai's. Still crazy tbh

[astrofelix59]

They are not pulling away from me, will let you know more when I adjust the tuning.
If you stray to far from spec wheel diameter, I think it confuses the background numbers, I know if you go to small the wheels float above the Dyno rollers, to large the wheels clip into the rollers. This maybe the issue, will crunch some numbers and see what I come up with.
Really to make changes to wheel diameter it's best to make a new config.

What sort of times are you getting for the hammerdale, will worry about the pagani when I'm done with hammer.

[Drakgo]

Originally posted by astrofelix59:

They are not pulling away from me, will let you know more when I adjust the tuning.
If you stray to far from spec wheel diameter, I think it confuses the background numbers, I know if you go to small the wheels float above the Dyno rollers, to large the wheels clip into the rollers. This maybe the issue, will crunch some numbers and see what I come up with.
Really to make changes to wheel diameter it's best to make a new config.

What sort of times are you getting for the hammerdale, will worry about the pagani when I'm done with hammer.

I honestly forgot off the top of my head but with the regular Hammerdal Strale S I know I was a few 10ths of a seconds faster when it comes to the 0-50,0-100,100-150, and 100-200, which is surprising when I was being beaten. with the hammerdal strale S Thoor (148.72% tune) I used 245/30/20" front, 325/25/21" rear and went with a 6th gear instead of 5 and can actually beat a full tune Hammerdal strale S standard. The only thing that gave the Thoor issues was another maxed out Thoor. So maybe I will try dropping the wheel sizes of my standard Hammerdal to what the Thoor has and go from there. (still find it annoying tho that the whole line up is nothing but those when you use the hammerdal's or the zonda tho)

I changed my standard Hammerdal to the same wheel sizes as my Thoor 245/30/20" front, 325/25/21" rear as well as the same 6 speed gear ratio as my Thoor just to see. I raced a 158.13% tuned AI hammerdale strale S and still lost multiple times but had a suuuuuper close race where I thought i was going to win but it beat me by a literal nose.

Best run stats-
Mine
R/T 0.015s
60- 2.187s
330- 4.076s
1/8 mile- 5.765s@243KMH
1000-7.133s
1/4 mile- 8.280s@316KMH
1/2 mile- 12.303s@390KMH
1 mile- 19.075s@445KMH
0-50KMH- 1.142s
0-100KMH- 2.384s
100-150KMH- 1.100s
100-200KMH- 2.098s

AI
R/T 0.083s
60- 2.299s
330- 4.195s
1/8 mile- 5.916s@245KMH
1000- 7.319s
1/4 mile- 8.432s@325KMH
1/2 mile- 12.439s@400KMH
1 mile- 19.058s@469KMH
0-50KMH- 1.182s
0-100KMH- 2.452s
100-150KMH- 1.202s
100-200KMH- 2.317s

[astrofelix59]

Firstly I will concede the AI gear ratio thing, it may hold true for otherwise completely stock cars but when you've got max tuning, the AI would have to have non default gears to reach the higher speeds.
Only working with TRS ATM, stripped the over tuned back to 0 tuning, standard gear box.
Did 5 runs, took 2 to workout the gear changes won the next 3, last being best times but all were close,
Q 9.628 @ 152 Vs 9.745@152
M24.168@207 Vs 24.270@206 (MPH)
with all the other check points just ahead of AI

With gearbox and clutch tuning 3.14% against 3.20% tuning or A762 Vs A787
3 runs, first had really bad RT, and pretty much lost every check point by a bit less than that RT.
Best
Q9.602@153 Vs 9.703@153
M24.054@207 Vs 24.138@207

Next 4.13% Vs 4.2% won all 3 both Q&M (all check points)
best
Q9.532@155 Vs 9.583@154
M23.819@209 Vs 23.936@208
Pretty much maybe a cars length ahead all 3 races all check points.

These were all in "Warm-up, Practice", tried 1v1 to see if different, closest match up was A795 Vs A775 (both Hammer TRS)
Again won all 3, with similar times and very close.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Then a run at 158.41% Vs 156.13% (I missed a couple of the tuning extras)
Q8.219@200 Vs 8.338@202
M18.982@273 Vs 18.965@290 AI got ahead (just) about the 3/4 mile.

Gearbox tweak to add a bit more top speed.
Q8.273@200 Vs 8.558@201
M18.885@284 Vs 19.168@289 (I was getting a bit tired, looks like AI was too) still managed to beat prior Mile.

Anyway have now brought the car down to matched 156.13% will get to some times a bit later on that. Will be doing a few more different ratio trials, It was working but could be better, last run was with 6 gears too, lower top speed was 4 gears and these were quick guesses without much testing.

All in all I think Drag Strip is working as intended. I can't put this car in the "Championship Races" I have to many Mods at same HP that will just cream it no matter what I do.

[SkinGravel]

Don't be afraid to adjust toe in/out in the test bay. If it's not 100% zeroed, the game will tell you your vehicle is out of alignment when you go to race the tracks. Ignore the warning and race anyway. Astro has always been the track master, spreadsheets and all, but to add to all that good info: if you're having problems with understeer/oversteer, adjust toe accordingly. Helps off the line, even before the Drag DLC, to compensate the torque with RWD vehicles especially. For sure helps on the strip. Will give you a more stable head start. Definitely still need wide slicks, tuned ratios, etc.

I wish I could remember who posted this tidbit a few years ago. Been so long that I can't remember who posted it, but credit to them, whoever they were. It helped me, especially playing with a controller. Something else to try to dial in on the strip and the tracks. Might work for ya; might not.

Cheers to the beers.

[astrofelix59]

Originally posted by SkinGravel:

Don't be afraid to adjust toe in/out in the test bay. If it's not 100% zeroed, the game will tell you your vehicle is out of alignment when you go to race the tracks. Ignore the warning and race anyway. Astro has always been the track master, spreadsheets and all, but to add to all that good info: if you're having problems with understeer/oversteer, adjust toe accordingly. Helps off the line, even before the Drag DLC, to compensate the torque with RWD vehicles especially. For sure helps on the strip. Will give you a more stable head start. Definitely still need wide slicks, tuned ratios, etc.

I wish I could remember who posted this tidbit a few years ago. Been so long that I can't remember who posted it, but credit to them, whoever they were. It helped me, especially playing with a controller. Something else to try to dial in on the strip and the tracks. Might work for ya; might not.

Cheers to the beers.

Never actually tried it, will give that one a shot.
Cheers Buddy.

BTW, New Iggor single out, damn cool.