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Customer: Good day! My car needs a couple of new sparkplugs. Could you help me out?
Mechanic: Certainly. It will only take a moment. [takes out magnifying glass, OBD scanner, compression testers, tire gague and multimeter, then starts going over the suspension]
Customer: I don't think that's how...
Mechanic: Nonono, there's procedures and protocol to follow. Now let me inspect this fender.
This includes first a test drive before you even pull it into the shop to check for noises, alignment, brake function, vibrations, leaking air seals, etc, then once you pull it in there's visual inspection of the engine for leaks, checking the belt condition and tension, checking the hoses condition, pulling any obd codes if the check engine light is on, checking all the lights and signals, checking the wipers and washer function, visually inspecting the suspension for leaks in the shocks, obvious damage, etc, checking engine mounts and rubber bushings, checking tire tread depth, checking how much material is left on the brake pads, checking the brake rotors for grooves or blueing, checking the exhaust for leaks and tapping on the catalytic converter (if it rattles like a shaker full of rice it's bad), checking the tire tread wear pattern for indicators of suspension issues, checking all the fluid levels and conditions (for things like chocolate milkshake looking oil or burnt smelling transmission fluid), checking the brake fluid resevoir cap to see if there's water in the fluid (you can tell because the rubber on the cap gets swollen when there's water in the system), checking all the buttons, dials, etc in the interior for function, checking the stereo speakers to make sure all 4 are working, checking the heat/ac and air vent and fan functions, checking the power windows and locks, checking the shocks' function by seeing how much the car bounces when you pull it into the bay, shaking the wheels by hand vertically to check for play in the wheel bearings and horizontally for play in the tie rods, and anything else you can spot that indicates wear or a potential issue.
We do this on EVERY car that comes into our bay. It takes all of 5-10 mins, and is the source of probably 95% of the work we actually make money doing, both for the shop and the mechanic, since most us get paid flat rate. It usually takes longer to write up the list of things found and look up the parts prices and labor rates for the service writer to try to sell to the customer than it does to actually do the inspection.
The compression test and fuel pressure tests we dont do unless we suspect an issue, since those tools take a good chunk of time and effort to hook up to the car and conduct the tests. All the rest of it though? Totally realistic
spark plugs can be rusty, and have a corona on the ceramic but as long as it has the correct gap and is clean inside the bore then it will still spark. changing parts for no reason will not fix the underlying problem.
its like putting a bandaid on a broken leg and taking painkillers and calling it fixed, you technically did SOMETHING but you still have a broken leg that needs to be set and plastered.