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A rim diameter of 20 inches would probably require a sidewall height of 50
"maintain the same rolling circumference" - Thanks, that's exactly what i wanted to say!
So, if we take stock Smith sizes 225/75R15, and take your suggested size 225/50/R20, this would mean that every inch of diameter is equal to 5 units of sidewall height. Right?
The first number is the width 225mm. The second number is the height, thats a percentage of the first number 75% of 225 = 168,75mm. Third is rim diameter in inch 15 x 2.54 = 38,1cm = 381 mm.
So wheel diameter is 168,75 + 381 + 168,75 = 718,5mm. Radius is half of that so 359,25mm Rolling circumference, 2 x pi x r = 2 x 3,14 x 359,25 = 2256,09mm = 2,256m
225/50R20
20 x 2,54 = 50,8cm = 508mm
112,5 + 508 + 112,5 = 733mm /2 = 366,5mm
2 x 3,14 x 366,5 = 2.301,62mm = 2,301m
Irl this will result in wrong speed gage info because it is calculated in revs in the gearbox.
225/45R20
20 x 2,54 = 50,8cm = 508mm
101,25 +508 + 101,25 = 710,5 / 2 = 355,25
2.230,97mm = 2,230m
This would be the best fit with 225 width.
Thank you for breaking this down for me, guys! A bit complex, but perfectly clear now ))
Sorry for the necropost, but is there any way you could elaborate on what you mean by the whole wrong speed gage and gearbox part, as well as what makes the other option the appropriate fit? If you don't really feel like it I definitely get it. Sent you a steam award as an apology for an ancient necropost, because the original info was super useful.
Anytime you adjust tire height or diameter, you must re-calibrate the speedometer.
Only problem with really old threads is the poster may not still be playing, but as above someone will jump in to help.
Also avoids problems with wheels hitting the body or frame. That could be fixed with stiffer suspension but would alter car behavior.
Changing Rim Sizes (IRL) can lead to problems... bearings wearing out faster, scraping against swing-arms, etc. etc. You may end up needing to change the 'offset' value for a larger rim in some cases. Usually a professional Tire shop can look up what will work and what won't for whatever vehicle you have. I say 'usually' cuz sometimes the guy / gal working there might not have a good enough understanding of all this and then either doesn't know what WILL work or sells you something that won't work 'properly.' Had to grind the edge on my swing-arms (IRL) on a vehicle once in order to keep the larger rims from scraping on a vehicle I had that someone put 17" rims on--default were 15".
Edit: this is the one I use: (you can change rim sizes as well and find the corresponding tire sizes to match your previous wheel diameter)
https://tiresize.com/calculator/
Yeah, that's a pretty rough way to do it since the second number is a percentage. But, for quick easy (off the top of my mind) reference, I'd just drop 5 points off the second number for each jump up in rim diameter... skipping some diameters that just aren't normally used. So, like... 225/75 R15 to R16 would drop to 70, R17 would drop to 65, R18 would drop to 60, R19 would drop to 55, and the size in question... R20 would drop to 50.... 225/50 R20. And, that is *fairly* close to original manufactures intended wheel circumference. It will be slightly off though and depending what the intended circumference is... may need to round down and go to 225/45 R20. I wouldn't go down to a 225/30 R20 cuz I hate super low profile tires... makes road surface noise horrendous on vehicles not well insulated against outside noise.