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able to be Driven.
Start with top gear and work down, set a realistic top speed for class and HP, for the rest of the gears look at ratio not speed.
From 9th to 8th add 0.09,
8th to 7th add 0.15,
7th to 6th add 0.21,
6th to 5th add 0.27,
5th to 4th add 0.33,
4th to 3rd add 0.33,
3rd to 2nd add 0.66,
2nd to 1st add 1.00.
First gear will scream no matter what, but the rest of the changes should drop in revs from red line, about 1k-1.5k for a V12 and about .7k-1k for a V8. If a gear (other than 1st) holds on red line to long, it needs to be brought closer to the gear above, i.e. if 8th gear (above) isn't dropping into 9th I would make it 0.08 and adjust the others to keep a nice smooth curve on the sliders. (more art than science at this point)
This setting would be for 250-300MPH, the higher the top speed the closer the ratios will get. For my 530MPH Mclaren the 9th/8th ratio is .03 and the rest adjusted accordingly, to match the curve.
Basically keep the revs in power band and don't let them drop into the torque (the grunt that gets the wheels spinning) and you'll get hard acceleration on the straight and power out of a corner whatever gear you're in. If you really use your imagination, gear changes are where the two lines cross on the dyno graph.
I don't use "final ratio" much, basically it's left for more top speed and right for more acceleration but you can't have both. You could tame a muscle car, give it much faster gear changes and lower top speed, making it more useful on the tight race track but I prefer purpose built cars.
Not an expert by any means but this is working for me hope it helps.
Sir Pleb-a-lot, thanks for asking. Great stuff.
Only tune an engine to the point it starts to become unruly, any more power is wasted if you can't get it to the road. You can get better times on the track in a slower car, just by staying on the track and holding a good line through the corners.
For me I have 3 classes of car, under 500HP are the most fun, a +15% Aston DBR1 or Ferrari GT 250 out on the Tuscany map is a great way to get the feel for gearbox tuning. 500-1000HP are serious drivers on the track. Over 1000HP, I really got to be in the zone, such hard work, my best track time was with 1150HP V6.
Good luck getting traction over 1500HP, from here it's just a 3 second ride to hell.
foot note from last, setting a realistic top speed, as a rough guide I add about the same % of tuning to the original stock top speed and when you get up to the 500MPH zone the first 3 or 4 gears will have to scream with 1.00 ratio each to be able reach the upper gear range which will still have to be close.
The 500 club is waiting for you, vroom vroom.
If you have any other questions I will help with what I can.
Jokes aside, it's about controlling the torque, when the engine screams the wheels don't. You can tune for the low gears not to scream but at a greatly reduced top speed, who wants that.
Build for the track, cars I use for Tuscany, Race Track or Purgatory are very different beasts, even if same model. Above numbers are a starting point for me and it's test, tweak, rinse and repeat from there. I'm sorry there is no one ratio to rule them all.