engine won't start [quick tip]

[kannabie]

Ok, a few words first. Some people (like me) prefer to run a full diagnostics cycle before starting to disassemble and actually repair the car, but some tests are not available if the engine won't run. Running electrical and all other available tests including visual inspection is what recommended to do in the first place, and then, sometimes you'll need to find the last bit that is left unidentified. The list below might help, as it includes basic items needed to start the engine to run path and track tests:

1. all liquids (except windwasher) should be in place
2. all filters (fuel, air, oil) should be in place and have a minimum working condition (orange or better)
3. ignition system (spark plugs, wires, etc),
4. starter and alternator
5. fuel pump, rail etc related to fuel (part name says "fuel" in it)
6. contents of the fusebox (relays/fuses)
7. battery
8. serpentine belts (might be timing parts also, but these involve significant disassembling which ruins the whole purpose of "diagnosis first - repairs later" approach)

Note: parts of working condition might be red in some cases, main thing is that they should be above 10%
Pressure tests require the engine to start, but not necessarily to run. Their requirements are less demanding than for test tracks.

Thanks for your feedback! Any other suggestions?

[Officer Payne]

Fuel pump. I also had a car not start because of a dead relay/fuse.

[Clarrisani]

If a car won't start the first thing I do is run an electrical check. Sometimes it finds a dead battery, fuses, or alternator or starter.

[kannabie]

Thanks for your feedback! Made a few updates.

[Bambusbjörn]

a little late here but hope you can still help. So are all engine parts below orange condition not recognized as "working" or just some? even purely mechanical ones like the engine block etc?

[kannabie]

Originally posted by Bambusbjörn:

a little late here but hope you can still help. So are all engine parts below orange condition not recognized as "working" or just some? even purely mechanical ones like the engine block etc?

Hi! I never delved into the issue that deep, but it seems like all parts above 10% are "working"

[sergetechone]

I did just that. First, I go inside the car and start the car. If no go, I do electrical test, CAN test, fix the parts, After do a compression and fuel test, if fail, fix those parts, except the pistons and some parts inside the car, I go again inside the car, and see if it will turn and start the car, if not try to find the faults that the other test did not find. If start, go to the test path that is on the map. In order the car to run, the parts have to be in orange or better. NO red.

[SpriteBark]

Water Pump for i4B - that took a while for me to work out...

[kekke2000]

Originally posted by kannabie:

Ok, a few words first. Some people (like me) prefer to run a full diagnostics cycle before starting to disassemble and actually repair the car, but some tests are not available if the engine won't run. Running electrical and all other available tests including visual inspection is what recommended to do in the first place, and then, sometimes you'll need to find the last bit that is left unidentified. The list below might help, as it includes basic items needed to start the engine to run path and track tests:

1. all liquids (except windwasher) should be in place
2. all filters (fuel, air, oil) should be in place and have a minimum working condition (orange or better)
3. ignition system (spark plugs, wires, etc),
4. starter and alternator
5. fuel pump, rail etc related to fuel (part name says "fuel" in it)
6. contents of the fusebox (relays/fuses)
7. battery
8. serpentine belts (might be timing parts also, but these involve significant disassembling which ruins the whole purpose of "diagnosis first - repairs later" approach)

Note: parts of working condition might be red in some cases, main thing is that they should be above 10%
Pressure tests require the engine to start, but not necessarily to run. Their requirements are less demanding than for test tracks.

Thanks for your feedback! Any other suggestions?

Sorry, but this list is false, unless they patched it or something. You don't need Air Filter, Coolant or even a radiator. I have made a pretty extensive list of minimums that I tested myself. This is the minimums I found.

Car Mechanic Sim 2021 Min Engine Parts

Good Condition:
Alternator
Battery
Belts/Chains
Carburetor
Engine Head Covers
Fuel Pump/Filter
Fuses/Relays
Ignition (everything incl spark plugs)
Oil Pan/Filter
Starter
Water Pump

Any Condition:
Camshaft/Crankshaft
Engine Block/Heads
Fuel Tank
Fuse box
Gearbox incl clutch/flywheel
Intake Manifold
Piston w Conrod/Rings
Power Steering Pump
Rod Caps/Bearing Caps
Rollers/Gears/Pulleys
Timing Covers
Valve Pushrods/Rocker Arms

Not needed:
Air Filter
Brake Servo/Winshield Washer/Coolant
Clips
Driveshaft
Exhaust Manifold
Radiator

[King Bartuc]

@kekke2000
‘ You don't need Air Filter, Coolant or even a radiator.’
For what?

Btw all my engine parts have met all requirements to run but when i get in to go to the test track it ‘won’t start’
Do the suspension parts in the back have to be better than red to ‘start’ the engine? Idk.
I’m on the story car FMW Panther MK1

I just want to test run the damn thing. Why does it say it wont start

[Mardoin69]

It won't start if any of the following are below 15% condition (or missing) on vehicle;

Starter, battery, alternator, fuses, spark plugs, ignition--wires, cap, rotor, distributor, or coils--fuel pump and filter. Additionally, it 'might' not start if piston and/or rings are below 15% but, it will crank over so you can do the compression test. I always do all tests I can first and fix any of those issues. It's worth noting that the only test requiring the vehicle to start (using basic inspection tools) is the fuel test. As long as the engine cranks, the rest of the tests can be done. So, the two fuel items are always my first check... to be sure they are actually installed and don't look completely rusted out.

Edit: AND, missing clips from distributor or Air Boxes... that I forgot to mention. Thx to @>< V >< for pointing out.

[USATukker]

Late to the party here, but I hope someone here can give me some pointers.

Let's start by saying that I am not a car guy, though I do like the game, so it is entirely possible that I have missed sonething glaringly obvious to any real gearheads.

I am restoring an old junk yard Typhoon. V8 OHV block. I wanted to see how far I could go with tuning, so in rebuilding the engine I got as many parts from the tunng shop as possible. Now engine will not start. I don't think I missed any parts. I'm not seeing any 'ghost' parts when I'm in assembly mode, and all parts are brand new, or restored to 100%.
Is there such a thing as 'overtuned' that could cause the engine to not start?

[>< V ><]

Originally posted by USATukker:

Late to the party here, but I hope someone here can give me some pointers.

Let's start by saying that I am not a car guy, though I do like the game, so it is entirely possible that I have missed sonething glaringly obvious to any real gearheads.

I am restoring an old junk yard Typhoon. V8 OHV block. I wanted to see how far I could go with tuning, so in rebuilding the engine I got as many parts from the tunng shop as possible. Now engine will not start. I don't think I missed any parts. I'm not seeing any 'ghost' parts when I'm in assembly mode, and all parts are brand new, or restored to 100%.
Is there such a thing as 'overtuned' that could cause the engine to not start?

These lists offered are somewhat accurate, but not fully.

Missing a Clip A or Clip B for an air filter (didn't test) or distributor cap (tested) will also cause the car to not start.

[astrofelix59]

Originally posted by USATukker:

Late to the party here, but I hope someone here can give me some pointers.

Is there such a thing as 'overtuned' that could cause the engine to not start?

No, you can Max tune with 3 star upgrades and worst case is you will have to much power to gain traction.
From +500HP you will want to use the expensive slicks (more money more traction)

Typhoon doesn't have external air filter box, so likely it's a clip on distributor, hard to see the ghost. Check the parts list on the info screens.

[kannabie]

Originally posted by USATukker:

Late to the party here, but I hope someone here can give me some pointers.

Let's start by saying that I am not a car guy, though I do like the game, so it is entirely possible that I have missed sonething glaringly obvious to any real gearheads.

I am restoring an old junk yard Typhoon. V8 OHV block. I wanted to see how far I could go with tuning, so in rebuilding the engine I got as many parts from the tunng shop as possible. Now engine will not start. I don't think I missed any parts. I'm not seeing any 'ghost' parts when I'm in assembly mode, and all parts are brand new, or restored to 100%.
Is there such a thing as 'overtuned' that could cause the engine to not start?

No, you can't overtune the car to the point it won't start. In your case the sure shot will be to check the car's info screen - there you can see what parts you are missing. In most cases these are the obvious stupid mistakes like forgetting to put back removed starter or clip.

[Bonaaq]

Originally posted by USATukker:

Late to the party here, but I hope someone here can give me some pointers.

Let's start by saying that I am not a car guy, though I do like the game, so it is entirely possible that I have missed sonething glaringly obvious to any real gearheads.

I am restoring an old junk yard Typhoon. V8 OHV block. I wanted to see how far I could go with tuning, so in rebuilding the engine I got as many parts from the tunng shop as possible. Now engine will not start. I don't think I missed any parts. I'm not seeing any 'ghost' parts when I'm in assembly mode, and all parts are brand new, or restored to 100%.
Is there such a thing as 'overtuned' that could cause the engine to not start?

Run an electric test probably