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I went back to the Owl Temple.
Unless... is the way to the Mesosphere through there? If so, I may have gone there too soon? I see the guy on the waterfall and the destroyed tower above. But I can't proceed from there, and the way back is blocked.
Update: turns out you only need to fly through, but also have to be carrying a companion. If you're flying by yourself, owlboy just lands on the floor...
But I think I was able to leave the Owl Temple fine after I figured that I could get through the "ground" (from where you arrived) as long as you're carrying a character.
edit: I wrote "press down" but upon testing, it is actually double tap down.