Wheel quick start guide - try these things first

[Vlad Tepes]

I wanted to post something because I see a lot of people having issues with the wheel setup. If you follow these steps, you should get good results. Some of the things don't make much sense but I have tried many different combinations and this works..

Before running the game, go into your Logitech profiler and set up whatever range you want (540, 900, etc.. you WILL get full wheel control with these if you follow the instructions below).


1) In the controls menu:
Go through all of the key mappings that are associated with driving (everything under the driving section) and delete EVERY mapping. Clear each one out, then use the ENTER key to create a new mapping for each item. This way, when mapping the throttle, for example, the ONLY thing that will cause the throttle to move is the actual throttle.
Do this for all functions.

Important! Set the START mapping to only ONE key or button. This button is used for checking sensitivity later.

2) Graphics
Set the VSYNC EVERY FRAME - this dramatically reduces the "rattle"
Set shadows to low

3)Controller
When you first enter the controller menu, it asks for a wheel range.
DO NOT SET THIS TO ANYTHING OTHER THAN 240 degrees.

I REPEAT SET THIS TO 240 DEGREES ONLY!!! (silly I know but it will work).
The reason for this is that the game can only go 240 degrees, no matter what anyone says..

FFB - what you set here will lower even more, the "rattle".. I have mine at 60% .. I still feel the rattle but I've learned to live with it. It happens about every other turn..

Deadzones
Set steering to 0 (all the way left) You do not want a dead zone in the steering
Brakes and throttle set to either 0 or 1 notch from the left

Steering range. This MUST BE ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT. This gives full movement.

Steering senstivity - set in the middle!! Do not go one click left or right. Doing this causes all kinds of issues. (I will explain later, but for now, just keep it in the middle)

Brake and throttle sensitivity. Move these all the way to the LEFT!



IMPORTANT!!*************************************
Once you have have done that (or anytime you change these values above), use the START button to view the sensitivities.
--turn your wheel all the way left and all the way right. YOU SHOULD SEE THE BALL GO ALL THE WAY LEFT AND ALL THE WAY RIGHT. Sounds silly but if you don't have this correct, it will stop moving and your wheel will still turn, OR you will get erratic movement in the middle.

Again I will repeat, the game only goes 240 degrees. I set my wheel outside of the game to whatever I want, and it will turn that full movement, and the game will "map" it to 240 degrees.

The good thing about this is that you will have very precise control. If you want faster response, go back out of the game, lower the range (down to something like 540 or 360) but KEEP THE GAME AT 240, then check the sensitivity.

I found that sometimes I have to exit the settings, jump out of the game, come back in, twice for it to "take".


These should get you going.. good luck!!!

See below for some notes on sensitivity that I found.. very strange:

So the sensitivity (in my opinion) SHOULD work such that middle is normal, left is less sensitive, and right is more sensitive..

It generally does that, but I found some strange bug.. if you set the sensitivity just one notch to the left of center, it actually goes WAY to sensitive.. then if you move it one more notch to the left, it actually gets less sensitive.. (as it should). I have no idea why, all I will say is, if you're going to move the sensitivity, move it far to the left.. or leave it in the center..

If you set your wheel to 900, sensitivity at center is very fine...
If you set your wheel to 540 or less, move the sensitivity to the left a few notches (not just one).. this will give you good center control.

[FearNoFoe]

Thanks man. I have a cheap wheel that goes only 180 but i managed to get it to work so i can race normally without correction the whole race! Thanks again

[Vlad Tepes]

Great to hear! Once you get that wheel working, it becomes a really fun game!

[xCoachDx]

I cannot get this game to be playable. I am using a Logitech G29 wheel and the game just feels like it does not respond to the wheel.

Despite using all of the suggestions requested, the wheel does not react the way that it should. Coming out of a turn, the force feedback jerks the wheel back in the opposite direction, often sending a sharper turn than it was capable of making going in for some reason. Also, the wheel seems to just go dead at times. Once I turn the wheel as far as the game believes it is supposed to go, it basically just stops turning until I get the wheel back within range. Then as soon as it’s back within range, it does the same as above. It kicks the turn in sharper than i was capable of entering.

For example, at Martinsville, I absolutely cannot get into a turn without slowing down extremely slower than the field. What I have to do is turn the wheel too far too early, let it go “dead” and then bring the wheel back in within range at the correct time to allow the force feedback to whip the car into the corner.

It’s a complete mess of a situation and is making the game completely unplayable. I’m hoping for a solution and fast. This seems to not be a common issue, but I have spent essentially all of my time tweaking controls. Extremely annoying and not what I had in mind when purchasing.

[Vlad Tepes]

I'm sorry to hear that. The critical settings are the steering range all the way to the right and the steering sensitivity exactly in the middle. I have a G27 wheel, so I would have hoped it would be similar.
Setting the wheel to 240 deg in game is critical also.

Finally, sometimes you make a change and the settings don't "take". You have to do that test (I forget which button it is but it has three horizontal lines lol).. to "verify". Sometimes you have to make the change, save, exit the game, and come back into the settings.

Sorry I don't have much else to offer. I agree that the game feedback is not very good. I feel like the cars are just too tight and then snap loose.

I've heard others say that something in the graphic settings can affect the wheel. I don't know about these things.

[xCoachDx]

Originally posted by voltaj:

I'm sorry to hear that. The critical settings are the steering range all the way to the right and the steering sensitivity exactly in the middle. I have a G27 wheel, so I would have hoped it would be similar.
Setting the wheel to 240 deg in game is critical also.

Finally, sometimes you make a change and the settings don't "take". You have to do that test (I forget which button it is but it has three horizontal lines lol).. to "verify". Sometimes you have to make the change, save, exit the game, and come back into the settings.

Sorry I don't have much else to offer. I agree that the game feedback is not very good. I feel like the cars are just too tight and then snap loose.

I've heard others say that something in the graphic settings can affect the wheel. I don't know about these things.

Yeah it has nothing to do with any of that. Unfortunately it is just a lack of execution by the developers. Sucks that I put so much time into it and can’t get it refunded. Game seems to be really good, but when controls are your biggest obstacle it’s essentially unplayable.

[xCoachDx]

Also now getting weird feedback where it slows me down 10 MPH or so in a corner. Gives a significant “stop and go” motion as if brake assist is on although it isn’t. AI cars can take a car smooth into the corner. I must either slow down significantly or not get enough turn going into the corner. This game is a mess. I only get my full amount of turn when I smooth the wheel out. It makes absolutely no sense.

[Vlad Tepes]

This really is a bummer, and I agree it makes no sense. I've never heard of anything like this before. My game runs just fine, but I've grown bored with it already lol.. so I removed it. I hate to say it but you aren't missing that much if you get rid of it. NR2003 is still better, but has a really old point system of course.
Since they got rid of one of the programmers, we don't get much communication of where the game is going.
Who knows.
Again, sorry nobody has been much help. Perhaps try running with keyboard or something crazy like that.. just to eliminate the behavior that seems to come from the wheel.

Alternatively, give it up... it's an ok game but you aren't missing that much lol...

[Tattoo [US]]

Thanks a lot. I just bought this and am like WTF? I have a G29 and it sucked on the straight a ways. Changing rotation to 240 fixed it. Had to lower FFB tho cuz my hands hurt. Now it's all good.
Thank you very much.

[Vlad Tepes]

I'm really glad people can enjoy this game! Now that we have nothing on TV to watch lol!

[Sahare Studios]

The previous advice is not entirely right. See my post below

[Sahare Studios]

I almost deleted this game.

I spent an hour on it and fixed the steering (this is for serious simmers who run every setting on expert with no assists at all (running on G27/G29):

Issues fixed:
-weird non linear steering
-Very sensitive oversteer correction

This is actually the worst programmed sim control calibration I have ever seen in 25 years of sim racing. SO many mistakes were made in development.

To fix it, start with deleting every control assignment in the control section and reassigning your steerings, clutch, throttle, gears and brake again.

Now, first of all the game automatically changes the steering ratio when you are in the pitlane for some reason. So you will go insane trying to adjust your control settings and then test it just sitting in the pitlane. You must be on track.

Second of all the game ALWAYS tries to change your steering input around 20% left and right of the middle. Either slowing it down over that range or speeding it up. I guess it's an oval thing.

The ONLY way to disable this artificial ratio across the centre range and get a true 1:1 linear steering over the entire range is to put the steering sensitivity slider to ONE notch left of centre, in the settings. Yes putting it exactly in the centre slows the steering ever so slightly across the centre 20%. So put it one notch left of centre.

Throttle and Brake sensitivity all the way to the left is 1:1 linear (contrary to steering sensitivity).

Logitech profiler you HAVE to set at 540degrees like an actual Nascar chassis. I know kids aren't used to real racecar rack and pinion ratio's and it feels slow to them. (they need shorter ratio's to catch slides quicker because they don't have the throttle control yet.) In this you set profiler to 540 degrees.

Now in game steering you set to 180degrees (not 240). Setting it at 180degrees is a meaningless number, it has no relevance to the handling of the car or the rack, but at this setting it is closest to 540degrees lock in game and loses the least degrees from left and right max lock.

That's it.

This is the worst programmed sim control I've seen in 25 years.

But once you set it up like I describe it's actually a very realistic handling and physics model. The game is a lot of fun for serious simmers.

[Cappy]

@Sahare Studios,I will certainly try it. But my issue here personally and why I follow this post was the braking not steering. The brakes would lock only pushing the pedal 2-5% no matter what I set it too. The car will just turn left lock the brakes and upset the car. I can't run any tracks that require hard braking. Thank you for sharing your tips and any help.

[LMS|Fivefifty]

try brake smoothing under game settings I believe

[RebelDiamonds88]

Just wanted to say thanks for writing this guide. I'm fortunate enough to have a DD wheel and separate pedals and although I was getting some functionality it was generally a mess and totally unplayable. Guide totally resolved all the issues even on a relatively high end set up that isn't officially supported allowing three input devices. Huge thanks.

[赏金出品TG:AAAA218]

For some reason when i am in game, when i press the accelerator pedal it pauses the game, but when i try and change it in config settings it wont work?