I spinned too much when I accelerate, what to do ?

[Forever Frank]

I spinned way to often when I get on the accelerator, what setting should I change ?
I use a Logitech G920

[SecretOne]

Be slower on the accelerator, you cannot jump on it.
Up the TC if the car has it.

[G.Heath]

You may also if the car that you are driving has "Boost" you can adjust it down so the turbo does not kick in to fast.

[DmAnd]

If your foot is to heavy, i think throttle sensitivity setting may help. The Two comments above are your best bet tho.

TC = Traction Control. Some cars in the game have it, some don't.

Boost has something to do with turbo, If the car has it, you can turn it down in the cars transmission setup. It will make you slower.

Even if the car does not have TC, I think the settings in the gameplay options allow you to turn assists off and on.

[Peter Stefani]

TC can help, and lowering Throttle sensitivity to about 36 will help too. Also make sure your throttle pot inside the pedals is clean.

[Dud]

Lowering throttle sens to 10 has made a huge difference to me

[EF_Neo1st]

Publicado originalmente por Forever Frank:

I spinned way to often when I get on the accelerator, what setting should I change ?
I use a Logitech G920

Accelerate less when turning more, accelerate more when turning less.
Cars also work differently according to this throttle/steering ratio.

[Alexandre Reis]

Publicado originalmente por EF_Neo1st:

Publicado originalmente por Forever Frank:

I spinned way to often when I get on the accelerator, what setting should I change ?
I use a Logitech G920

Accelerate less when turning more, accelerate more when turning less.
Cars also work differently according to this throttle/steering ratio.

Man!!!!! What a comment!!!! This guy summarized Mohr's Circle in just one sentence. Great job!

[Peter Stefani]

I just disassembled my G920 pedals because they are less than usable. With new pedals, EVERYTHING in EVERY game works perfectly. I don't know why I waited this long to upgrade.

[DmAnd]

Publicado originalmente por Peter Stefani:

I just disassembled my G920 pedals because they are less than usable. With new pedals, EVERYTHING in EVERY game works perfectly. I don't know why I waited this long to upgrade.

I think I should upgrade my pedals as well.
I am very happy with my t300 wheel, but the 3 pedal set that came with the gt edition have no resistance on them.

What pedal set is good? I thought i heard that there are ones that vibrate and have resistance.

[EF_Neo1st]

Publicado originalmente por Reis:

Publicado originalmente por EF_Neo1st:

Accelerate less when turning more, accelerate more when turning less.
Cars also work differently according to this throttle/steering ratio.

Man!!!!! What a comment!!!! This guy summarized Mohr's Circle in just one sentence. Great job!

The basics tbh...
Without video that was my best guess.

[[SRS13]Rastus(TTT)]

Publicado originalmente por Dmand:

Publicado originalmente por Peter Stefani:

I just disassembled my G920 pedals because they are less than usable. With new pedals, EVERYTHING in EVERY game works perfectly. I don't know why I waited this long to upgrade.

I think I should upgrade my pedals as well.
I am very happy with my t300 wheel, but the 3 pedal set that came with the gt edition have no resistance on them.

What pedal set is good? I thought i heard that there are ones that vibrate and have resistance.

The 3 pedal set on the T300RS GT edition SHOULD have the conical brake mod (a metal bracket with a bolt that has a rubber cone on the end), this simulates increasing pressure at the end of the pedal travel.
When set correctly you get resistance underfoot aiding muscle memory for the point the brakes will lock up and can more easily modulate your braking pressure, it makes trail braking easier to judge and MASSIVELY helps in avoiding lockups.
About a 18 months ago I took the Nords WR with the T300RS and T3PA's with the conical brake mod.
https://youtu.be/2QCi_vSNDIk
So whilst they aren't the best pedals they CAN let you be competitive with even DD wheels.

As for upgrading the pedals? Thrustmaster make the TLCM set that comes with a loadcell brake pedal and hall effect sensors on all the pedals.
The loadcell gives increasing pressure throughout it's full travel, giving more a gradual increase than the conical mod can, further enhancing your ability to accurately brake and tailor the braking force to just what's needed.

The Hall Effect sensors (a magnet on the pedal arm with a magnetic field sensor underneath), are night and day better than both the Logitech pedals and even the T3PA's which both use potentiometers (basically a variable resistor with a swing arm on a carbon pad) these are entirely mechanical and are prone to wear and even worse dust ingress which can cause major issues, such as, seeming to have less acceleration out of corners than the AI or other players in the exact same car, suffering oversteer kicks whilst applying the gas on corner exits or, sudden and random changes in the braking habits of the cars e.g. on lap you're fine the next you just aren't slowing dawn enough to make the turns.

If you're having any of these throttle/brake issues with EITHER Logitech/TM pedals, open the software pedal calibration page, slowly apply pressure to each pedal and watch the scales for fluttering or sudden jumps up or down the scales as you apply/release pressure.
Seeing ANY of these will indicate your pedals have either, gotten dirt/hair/dustbunnies in the mechanism or. the potentiometers are worn or damaged.
You can carefully remove the bottom plate to examine the pedal mechanisms and clean them to remove the issue should any crud be found in there, if they're spotless? (Highly unlikely) Then the Pots are possibly worn or damaged and might need replacing.
BE WARNED!!!!
DON'T LET THE GEARED MECHANISM DISCONNECT!!! It's nigh on impossible to re-align them correctly.. TRUST me I've made this mistake and had to get new pedals both times (Logitech G27 and T3PA's).

For the T300RS a set of TLCM pedals will plug right into the wheelbase just like the normal pedals or, can plug in a a separate device via USB, this gives the full 16bit resolution whist via the base you get 12bit resolution (though friends who have them don't notice any real difference).

I cannot stress enough how much benefit you'll get from ANY loadcell pedal set, the vid above I took the WR but over time was beaten down to 16th (iirc).
Then I got a set of Fanatec V3 pedals... OOOHHH BOY!
Less than 2 days of using them this happened vs the 3rd placed guy on the Nords TT leaderboards...
https://youtu.be/wPf6N3bsLk4
The mistakes I made were all due to lack of familiarity with the pedals..
What I CAN say is my consistency MASSIVELY improved just because of the loadcell brake, trailbraking by FEEL alone became more natural and instinctive, after a few more days I was playing on the brakes e.g. braking HARD and late to make a divebomb pass without the risk of spearing off the track and ruining 2 peoples race, or, lighter, earlier braking to fake out another player then increasing the pressure causing them to overshoot and allowing me to undercut them on the exit.

I got a CSL DD last December about 4 months after getting the V3's and I can safely say this.
I got MORE improvement from the loadcell brake than from the direct drive wheel.
The DD wheels improved FFB allowed me to feel the slides earlier than I did on the T300RS, meaning less spins and a better ability to react to ANY adverse handling before it became evident on the screen.

This last vid was my 3rd week with the CSL DD against some of the fastest guys in game, these guys were beating me on the T300 + T3PA's.
Then swapping wins and hounding each other all race on the T300 + V3's...
https://youtu.be/hS_ZT0W7PP8

To ANYONE with Logitech or Thrustmaster pedals having ANY issues like I mentioned above, check the pedals for dust it COULD be that is the root cause of your problems...
If you can afford to, invest in a set of loadcell pedals,
TLCM's are about £200,
Fanatec CSL Loadcell 3 pedal set is about £190.
V3's are north of £300-350 (these have vibration motors too for ABS/lockup/Wheelspin effects)
You CAN get aftermarket vibration kits for both the TLCM's and and CSL elite LC set's too.

Sorry for the wall of text but it IS a complex issue that takes time to explain in a concise manner but I hope it helps answer the question and point you in some directions to diagnose possible problems that might be causing you grief

[EF_Neo1st]

I can "feel it through FFB" (a FFB reaction I learned to identify as wheels locking) so I dont spin that much and I learn and react when in happen (not being a matter of muscle memory), default+ setting, G29, no FFB file or change to external files or GHUB.

[DmAnd]

Publicado originalmente por SRS13Rastus(TTT):

Publicado originalmente por Dmand:

I think I should upgrade my pedals as well.
I am very happy with my t300 wheel, but the 3 pedal set that came with the gt edition have no resistance on them.

What pedal set is good? I thought i heard that there are ones that vibrate and have resistance.

The 3 pedal set on the T300RS GT edition SHOULD have the conical brake mod (a metal bracket with a bolt that has a rubber cone on the end), this simulates increasing pressure at the end of the pedal travel.
When set correctly you get resistance underfoot aiding muscle memory for the point the brakes will lock up and can more easily modulate your braking pressure, it makes trail braking easier to judge and MASSIVELY helps in avoiding lockups.
About a 18 months ago I took the Nords WR with the T300RS and T3PA's with the conical brake mod.
https://youtu.be/2QCi_vSNDIk
So whilst they aren't the best pedals they CAN let you be competitive with even DD wheels.

As for upgrading the pedals? Thrustmaster make the TLCM set that comes with a loadcell brake pedal and hall effect sensors on all the pedals.
The loadcell gives increasing pressure throughout it's full travel, giving more a gradual increase than the conical mod can, further enhancing your ability to accurately brake and tailor the braking force to just what's needed.

The Hall Effect sensors (a magnet on the pedal arm with a magnetic field sensor underneath), are night and day better than both the Logitech pedals and even the T3PA's which both use potentiometers (basically a variable resistor with a swing arm on a carbon pad) these are entirely mechanical and are prone to wear and even worse dust ingress which can cause major issues, such as, seeming to have less acceleration out of corners than the AI or other players in the exact same car, suffering oversteer kicks whilst applying the gas on corner exits or, sudden and random changes in the braking habits of the cars e.g. on lap you're fine the next you just aren't slowing dawn enough to make the turns.

If you're having any of these throttle/brake issues with EITHER Logitech/TM pedals, open the software pedal calibration page, slowly apply pressure to each pedal and watch the scales for fluttering or sudden jumps up or down the scales as you apply/release pressure.
Seeing ANY of these will indicate your pedals have either, gotten dirt/hair/dustbunnies in the mechanism or. the potentiometers are worn or damaged.
You can carefully remove the bottom plate to examine the pedal mechanisms and clean them to remove the issue should any crud be found in there, if they're spotless? (Highly unlikely) Then the Pots are possibly worn or damaged and might need replacing.
BE WARNED!!!!
DON'T LET THE GEARED MECHANISM DISCONNECT!!! It's nigh on impossible to re-align them correctly.. TRUST me I've made this mistake and had to get new pedals both times (Logitech G27 and T3PA's).

For the T300RS a set of TLCM pedals will plug right into the wheelbase just like the normal pedals or, can plug in a a separate device via USB, this gives the full 16bit resolution whist via the base you get 12bit resolution (though friends who have them don't notice any real difference).

I cannot stress enough how much benefit you'll get from ANY loadcell pedal set, the vid above I took the WR but over time was beaten down to 16th (iirc).
Then I got a set of Fanatec V3 pedals... OOOHHH BOY!
Less than 2 days of using them this happened vs the 3rd placed guy on the Nords TT leaderboards...
https://youtu.be/wPf6N3bsLk4
The mistakes I made were all due to lack of familiarity with the pedals..
What I CAN say is my consistency MASSIVELY improved just because of the loadcell brake, trailbraking by FEEL alone became more natural and instinctive, after a few more days I was playing on the brakes e.g. braking HARD and late to make a divebomb pass without the risk of spearing off the track and ruining 2 peoples race, or, lighter, earlier braking to fake out another player then increasing the pressure causing them to overshoot and allowing me to undercut them on the exit.

I got a CSL DD last December about 4 months after getting the V3's and I can safely say this.
I got MORE improvement from the loadcell brake than from the direct drive wheel.
The DD wheels improved FFB allowed me to feel the slides earlier than I did on the T300RS, meaning less spins and a better ability to react to ANY adverse handling before it became evident on the screen.

This last vid was my 3rd week with the CSL DD against some of the fastest guys in game, these guys were beating me on the T300 + T3PA's.
Then swapping wins and hounding each other all race on the T300 + V3's...
https://youtu.be/hS_ZT0W7PP8

To ANYONE with Logitech or Thrustmaster pedals having ANY issues like I mentioned above, check the pedals for dust it COULD be that is the root cause of your problems...
If you can afford to, invest in a set of loadcell pedals,
TLCM's are about £200,
Fanatec CSL Loadcell 3 pedal set is about £190.
V3's are north of £300-350 (these have vibration motors too for ABS/lockup/Wheelspin effects)
You CAN get aftermarket vibration kits for both the TLCM's and and CSL elite LC set's too.

Sorry for the wall of text but it IS a complex issue that takes time to explain in a concise manner but I hope it helps answer the question and point you in some directions to diagnose possible problems that might be causing you grief :tgrin:

Thank you very much for giving such a detailed response.
I think i will get the V3s with the vibration motors. I am very happy with the T300 wheel base, I still use the default wheel and it feels very small. I need to get a bigger rim for that.

The default GT edition wheel feels very small especially in VR, it doesn't line up with the scale of things.

[BOT Sam]

The more you push the accelerator the straighter your wheel should be (to centre)

[[SRS13]Rastus(TTT)]

Publicado originalmente por EF_Neo1st:

I can "feel it through FFB" (a FFB reaction I learned to identify as wheels locking) so I dont spin that much and I learn and react when in happen (not being a matter of muscle memory), default+ setting, G29, no FFB file or change to external files or GHUB.

I don't doubt that one bit :)
What the increased FFB and the custom files bring is more information and earlier than default or default+.

The biggest benefit I've had is from the loadcell pedals, and by a BIG margin.