Car Setups

[ArchEnemy]

Hello

I have the following question. Is it necessary to edit your car with a setup in Automibilista 2? I mostly play GT 7 and I don't have anything to do with things like that. Then I tested Acc and you have to be very familiar with setups....

[Roddy]

Originally posted by ArchEnemy:

Hello

I have the following question. Is it necessary to edit your car with a setup in Automibilista 2? I mostly play GT 7 and I don't have anything to do with things like that. Then I tested Acc and you have to be very familiar with setups....

If you want to be fast... yes.
Sometimes default setups are 'okay' at best.
To really make the car do what you want then sometimes it's a must to adjust car setups.

[Shoestring]

I may not be the best person to answer, I am not the quickest driver, etc. But, you do not really, although the default setup has the brake pressure really high. The only thing I usually will edit in that brake pressure, I bring way down to like 85-90%, sometime lower depending on the car and then brake bias and fuel. Now, probably get much faster with good setups, etc, I just don't really mess with it

[ArchEnemy]

OK, thanks. How does it compare to Acc? In Acc it is a must I think. Or to put it another way, is it easier to handle than in Acc.

[dbond1]

Necessary is the key word in the OP. No, it isn't necessary, but it is advisable. The fact is that any specific setup is unlikely to be perfectly suited to you and the track. Every driver has his or her preferred feel, how the car behaves in various cornering and straightline phases. Now and then a default setup may indeed feel dialed in, but more often you will find it has too much oversteer or understeer in the different phases and this is when it pays to know how to dial it in.

In my case I find default setups in AMS2 in the main have too much entry understeer, which makes sense and makes the car easier to handle for newcomers, but it isn't fast. But then, knock the front springs down a notch or two (softer) and now the entry balance is better.

In general I think anyone other than the most casual sim racers should understand setup and how to achieve the balance they seek.

[Dud]

Racing against the AI, no you don't need to edit setups. Online, there may be some fixed setup races, but most allow setup changes.
If you want to be "very" competitive online, then setup changes will help.

[PLAYLIFE]

Go to time trial, select ghosts and you can donwload their setups that are optimized for 1 lap, but still they can last 20-30 minutes with some tweaking (open engine vents and brake vents)

[Razamanaz]

Originally posted by PLAYLIFE:

Go to time trial, select ghosts and you can donwload their setups that are optimized for 1 lap, but still they can last 20-30 minutes with some tweaking (open engine vents and brake vents)

Well, optimized for that particular driver anyway. Sometimes I find those setups to be far too loose for me and super hard to drive. They can make a good baseline to start with tweaking though and they're usually far different than a default setup. Of course, there are so many different possible car and track pairings that some don't have a time trial to look at.

[Behemmoth]

Not necessary, but it's fun to do it.

Lower the AI difficulty (if more than 80 they will tweak their cars) and race.

Eventually you'll feel like tweaking your car to see how fast can you go, and then for that use the "Time Trial" and copy the same configuration as of the car of the players on top of the leaderboards. You'll find out how fast and how responsive their car is.

Then all you need to do is read and play with different configurations to understand how everything everything is connected. Once you do, there'll be times when you tell yourself "hmmm, i can turn these corners really well, but i think my car can move a bit faster on these straights" and then you'll know exactly where you need to adjust the settings.

It took me one attempt to engineer a car, and now i can't stop changing their setups.

[[SRS13]Rastus(TTT)]

Not strictly necessary as iirc The Nemesis 69 who at one point held over 200 top times often ran default setups and made the rest of us look silly.
Many of these records got beaten by the Uber tuners out there and He'd just come back and use a tuned setup to retake the top spot.
Having said that, it really depends more on how you like the handling of the default setups.
Do you have complete confidence in the car?
If so then you CAN be competitive but there's a few things to bear in mind and some very simple methods to improve a car that you DON'T have confidence in.
All default setups have brake pressure at 90% and brake ducts set to 50% front and rear.
In a short race this isn't a major problem but soon as you start doing longer races in hot climates and perfect weather conditions you'll start to have problems like overheating/fading brakes as the race goes on.
Especially made worse by the brake balance being set forwards so the front brakes heat up way faster than the rears.
Then there's other issues like tyre pressures being a bit low causing the tyres to begin overheating and grip falling off a cliff.
This gets compounded by for example camber being too aggressive making the inner edge get far too hot again causing grip to fall off a cliff.
You CAN of course goto time trial mode and download tuning setups used by other players to set a lap time, (goto TT mode pick the car and track, click on add ghost, select a time which has a spanner next to it, launch the event, before you click on start, hover over the ghost name and a spanner will appear, click the spanner and their setup is applied and saved for you).
The only problem with this is the very top times are often set with setups totally unsuitable for a race with radiators closed off, brake ducts closed off, extreme low downforce, extreme tyre pressures etc etc.

The best way to get the most of the cars is tune them to your favoured driving style, to do this well you really do need some knowledge of tuning and most importantly handling diagnosis.
I've been using Chris Hayes tuning guide for ages, it's a series of vids breaking down the various settings in the 1st 10 vids and the 11th vid brings them all together has a diagnosis crib sheet for quick reference in the video description.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWSWQyqnLDu7tLWE9P35Qog6Z8_xb7l_g
The 12th vid is an example of how to go about the entire process for the Audi R8 in AC but the methodology is applicable in ANY racing game out there.

TL:DR No it's not NECESSARY but it's ADVISABLE to learn even the basics as they can give you utter confidence in the car and what it'll do corner after corner and lap after lap.
Watch the linked vid playlist to learn how it can benefit your racing...

[ArchEnemy]

OK, thanks. As I understand it, I can see what setups other drivers have and copy them?

[Jason Cooper]

This might help, plenty more info online.
WINGS
increase front = oversteer = front grip crnrs
increase rear = understeer = rear grip crnrs
decrease front = understeer = front grip crnrs
decrease rear = oversteer = rear grip corners
ANTIROLL BARS
stiffen front =derease grip/understeer/more response handling
stiffen rear =oversteer/decrease grip exiting crnrs
soften front =increse grip/less response
soften rear = increase grip exit crnrs
WEIGHT
front = oversteer
rear = understeer
BRAKE BIAS
front = understeer
rear = oversteer
CAMBER
increase front = increase grip crnrs
increase rear = decreasde grip crnrs
decrease front =decrease grip
decrease rear = increase grip
TOE
increase front = improve turn in
increase rear = improve stabillity
decrase front = less turn in
decrease rear = decrease stabillity
TYRES
increase front = understeer
increase rear = oversteer
decrease front = oversteer
decrease rear = understeer
RIDE HEIGHT
increase front = understeer
increase rear = oversteer
decrease front = oversteer
dcrease rear = understeer
SPRINGS
stiffen front = understeer/more respones
stiffen rear = oversteer
soften front = oversteer/less response
soften rear = understeer
BUMP
stiffen front = understeer/increase tyre wear
stiffen rear = oversteer/increase tyre wear
soften front = oversteer/decrease tyre wear
sften rear = understeer/decrease tyre wear
REBOUND
stiffen front = understeer during crnr exit
stiffen rear = oversteer during crnr exit
soften front = oversteer crnr exit
soften rear = understeer crnr exit

[[SRS13]Rastus(TTT)]

Originally posted by ArchEnemy:

OK, thanks. As I understand it, I can see what setups other drivers have and copy them?

You can download them from TT mode as per the instructions I mentioned, but, unlike Forza and some other games, you can access all the settings see what's been done and adjust them at need.
goto TT mode pick the car and track.
click on add ghost below the car image,
select a time which has a spanner next to it,
launch the event,
before you click on start, hover over the ghost name and a spanner will appear,
click the spanner and their setup is applied and it's automatically saved for you when you leave the event, usually listed by the players name.
It doesn't ALWAYS work as sometimes the setups are broken or maybe posted before a major update so can't be downloaded.
You can pick upto 3 ghosts and if their tuning is available download them all before you launch the time trial.
Things to look for in any top times' setup are brake ducts, radiator opening, downforce, tyre pressures, if these are set to extremes like 0 brake ducts or radiator then you'll need to open them or the brakes will cook and more or less become useless or the engine will blow up once it overheats in a lap or 2.
That vid playlist is about 1h 30 mins but split up into smaller chunks to make it easier to understand and all stitched together in the final video.
Learning the terminology is probably the 1st step but Chris does a pretty decent job of explaining them all.
The crib sheet in the 11th vid is a just a single page of the most common problems and their remedies...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-wnbyqBTJDySzDYU2VmHLfrU5MMihSUs/view