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Vehicle Armor Guide (V1.1)
By Keystone
This guide lists the strong points and weak points of vehicles, as well as tips on where to shoot in a frontal engagement.
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Overview
In this visual guide you will see where the armored strong points and weak points on many of the vehicles in Squad are. Armor strength is the main focus of this guide -- things such as tracking a vehicle, damaging the engine, and ammo racking shots, while occasionally mentioned, aren't the main focus. There will also be tips on where to shoot an enemy vehicle if you have to engage it head-on instead of its rear or flanks.

The pictures you will see were made using the transparent damage models as a guide. I decided on using the full in-game model since that's what you'll be seeing out there in a real match, not the transparent one. It helps to memorize certain features the actual models have that the transparent ones don't.

Please note that Canadian vehicles are not covered in this guide, along with vehicles and factions not yet added.
The Armor Values


Memorize this image.

It illustrates the armor values on any given vehicle, and determines how much damage a projectile will do when it hits.

Blue = Strongest armor
Nearly impenetrable; you'll have to rely on either a Main Battle Tank round, ATGM (Anti-Tank Guided Missile), or multiple Heavy AT rockets to have a hope of defeating this armor rating**.

Green = Strong armor
It will take multiple explosive projectiles to damage, and it is not vulnerable to Heavy Machinegun (HMG) rounds

Yellow = Average strength armor
It provides okay-ish protection but is especially vulnerable to AT rockets. This armor and below are also vulnerable to other weapons*

Orange = Weak armor
A good target for engagements if you can get it.

Red = Weakest armor rating
Red rated armor is the prime target for any engagement, along with what is technically the worst "armor" rating...

Black = No armor
It's like it's wearing nothin' at all...

Armor Addendum
About Yellow/Orange/Red rated armor: Aside from AT rockets, Yellow armor and below is vulnerable to the following weapons/vehicles:

-M2 Browning .50 cal HMG (emplacements included)
-Dshk 12.7mm HMG (emplacements included)
-NSV HMG (emplacements included)
-BRDM 14.5mm main gun
-BTR-80 14.5mm main gun
-BTR-82 30mm main gun
-MT-LB 30mm main gun

Do not engage Green or Blue rated armor with 14.5mm main guns -- in terms of damage you'll only be scratching the paint.

Heavy Machine Guns will not damage red/yellow/orange rated armor on Tanks and some IFV's (like the Bradley)

Other notes:
Many of the turrets on vehicles in Squad have Blue rated armor, which as mentioned above protects the vehicle from serious harm when faced with explosives. This does not, however, mean that you should avoid targeting Blue rated turrets. The turret, along with other parts of vehicles, all have specific health values. If damaged enough, these parts become broken and (mostly) useless until they are repaired, even if the overall health of the vehicle is still intact. The damage to a turret can range from the gunner losing stabilization to being completely unable to move the turret in any direction.

It is possible, and advisable if fighting US/Canadian/UK vehicles, to break a Blue rated turret and either disengage or flank around to the side or rear for a kill. One other thing to mention is that hitting frontal Blue rated armor with an ATGM is not at all a waste of ordinance -- it does do significant damage. However it often takes two or more ATGM missiles to kill a vehicle with Blue rated frontal armor, instead of the 1 it typically takes for a side or rear shot. The difference between 1 and 2 here could mean victory or a trip back to the spawn menu.

Deflections and Penetrations:
There are some visual cues that denote how your shots on enemy armor are being received. For example, if you shoot at an enemy vehicle and notice your shots are producing green sparks upon impact, that means that your shots are not penetrating and are actually bouncing off the armor being shot at. This is, obviously, indicative of your main gun being underpowered to do damage to the armor. This does not necessarily mean your main gun cannot defeat the vehicle you're engaging, just that you need to aim at a weaker part of the vehicle. The obvious exception would be an IFV engaging a main battle tank with its autocannon -- you're only going to ever scratch the paint.

An exception to this exception is an IFV versus the old T-62, but we'll get to that later.

But how do you know if you're doing damage and not deflecting? Easy -- a damaging or otherwise penetrating shot produces grey/black smoke upon impact. Black smoke in particular is indicative of a seriously damaging shot. If you score a penetrating hit on an enemy vehicle and manage to hit its ammo rack or engine compartment, you will see black smoke every time. Engine hits are also noticeable by how there will be copious amounts of sparks flying everywhere upon impact, along with a very loud and distinctive audio cue that sounds like firecrackers.

Range:
The distance you engage a vehicle at plays a role on whether a shot will penetrate or bounce. For example if you're in an APC or IFV and are engaging another APC/IFV at extreme ranges (1500 meters and above) it is entirely possible that you will not do damage to the other vehicle, even if you're in a stronger vehicle and hitting a relatively weak spot. Close the distance and this ceases to apply. However this does not apply to tanks, which can easily engage and knock out vehicles (and other tanks) at extreme ranges.
Insurgent/Militia/Russian/MEA Vehicles
This section covers vehicles used by the Insurgent, Militia, Russian and MEA factions. These 4 factions share a great many of the same vehicles, though not all.

Please note that despite the change in camouflage between each faction, the shared vehicles have the same armor values
(A Militia T-62 has the same armor as an Insurgent T-62, a Militia BRDM has the same armor as an MEA BRDM, etc.)

With the release of V1.0 the MEA has been added, and many of their vehicles can be found in this section. Not all their vehicles, however. Scroll down to the MEA section for those.
T-62
Front:
Side:
Rear:
The base of the T62's rear turret is surprisingly well armored, however the hull itself is not. Aim for the hull.

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The T62, being a long outdated tank, is very weak to every other modern tank, including IFV's with 25mm or 30mm turrets. A shot to anywhere but the sides of the T-62's turret will yield high damage.
An AP shot to the ammo compartment on the front right of the T-62 can ammo rack it, resulting in a 1 hit kill.
The ammo rack is mostly covered by Blue rated armor, however the upper part of it is only covered by Green rated armor.
T-72
Front:
Side:
Rear:


Frontal engagement tip(s):
The T-72's most glaring weakness in a head-to-head fight is the square area around its turret. All other tanks have at least some armor in this area. The T-72 lacks even that -- it has no armor around its main cannon.

Hitting here is the only reliable way to damage/kill a T-72 from the front.
BMP 1 and BMP 2
The BMP-1 and BMP-2 are largely the same, but not quite.

No BMP-2 model though.


Insurgents and Militia get the BMP-1 which has an older Malyutka ATGM missile and a small 73mm cannon. The Russians get the BMP-2 which has a 30mm autocannon and a more modern Konkurs ATGM. Keep in mind that the BMP-1 does not offer stabilization* or laser range finding for the gunner; the BMP-2 offers stabilization but not laser range finding. The MEA gets both the BMP 1 and 2.

*Only the MEA's BMP-1 offers gunner stabilization.

Be aware I might be wrong on the BMP-2's frontal values; however I believe the side armor values to be accurate:

Front INS/Militia/MEA:
Side INS/Militia/MEA:
Rear INS/Militia/MEA:

Front RU/MEA:
Side RU/MEA:
Rear RU/MEA:
Frontal engagement tip(s):
The top of the frontal sloped armor is weaker than the bottom slope on both. Disabling the turret with repeated hits to the ring is also an option. In addition, the tops of both BMP's are exceedingly vulnerable to AT, and a well placed HAT/MBT round can 1 shot it if hit there.

If facing off against the BMP-1, an unorthodox (and risky) strategy is to get as close as possible to it -- the BMP-1's 73mm projectiles have an arming distance. If you're close enough, the projectile won't hurt you since it didn't travel far enough to arm.
BRDM
Front:
Side:
Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The open driver's window is weakest to AT and HMG fire.
MT-LB
Front:
Side:
Rear:
The MTLB, surprisingly enough, has Blue rated armor on the back. This doesn't pose much of a problem for tanks with AP rounds or for ATGM missiles, but it may very well be a waste of a rocket for LAT and HAT troopers.

Frontal engagement tip(s):
Ah yes, the MTLB. Affectionately known as the "Sh*tbox" it gets this nickname from its poor overall armor and underwhelming armaments against other armored vehicles. The armor on the MTLB is weak on the front. In fact, when facing it from the front, the lower sloped armor is Red rated, so aiming there will especially hurt when hit.
BTR-80 + BTR-82
Note: The difference between the BTR-80 and BTR-82 is that the 82 has a 30mm autocannon turret.
Front:
Side:
Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
Unlike the BRDM the open driver window doesn't do extra damage, so just ignore that. When fighting the BTR-82, focus on the 30mm cannon's turret ring. Hitting here is the only reliable way to do damage or kill the BTR when going head-to-head without ATGMs or being in a tank.

Just keep in mind that if you're fighting the BTR-82 with a Stryker (the most common engagement) your HMG will likely overheat and need a few seconds to cool down before you manage to pump enough rounds into the turret ring to kill it.

In the case of the BTR-80, aiming at the small area around the gun is your best bet, since the BTR-80 doesn't have the rather large turret ring the 82 does.

An unorthodox method to fight the BTR as a Stryker is to ram into the front of it at full speed. The Stryker is, oddly enough, quite good at flipping over BTRs.
Tigr Armored Vehicle
The brand new Tigr Armored Vehicle for the Russians.





I don't know its armor values since it wasn't added to the Jensen's Range transparent armor area. However, after running some weapons damage tests, I feel fairly confident in saying that it is similar to the M-ATV's armor and is at least Orange rated all around.

Disclaimer: This is just a guess


When it gets a full transparent damage model in Jensen's Range I'll update accordingly.

Frontal engagement tip(s):
If it's an open top Tigr just shoot the guy on the gun. If it's a remote operated Tigr and you only have small arms then you'll want to hide, or get your AT to hit it. If you're on an HMG or in a vehicle with an HMG on it, aim for the windows -- HMG's like the M2 Browning .50 can easily penetrate the windows and kill the guy on the remote controls. This also applies to the MAT-V and Canadian TAP-V.

With the Tigr, you can actually have a shot of taking on vehicles like the M-ATV and Stryker if you get a good flanking angle.
United States Army Vehicles
This section covers vehicles used by the US Army
M1A2 Abrams
Front:
Side:
Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
Like all other tanks, the area right around the tank cannon isn't as strong as the rest of the frontal armor. And, like all other tanks, it has a turret ring that can result in a one hit kill if hit by skilled (or lucky) gunners. The Abrams, however, has by far the most exposed turret ring of any tank currently in the game. One hit here from any AP tank shell or ATGM can doom an Abrams.
The other disadvantage is the Abrams' turret, namely the poorly armored rear sides that are quite easy to hit if looking at it side-on.
Bradley IFV
Front:
Side:
Rear:
Frontal engagement tip(s):
Don't.

No but seriously, in a frontal engagement the Bradley is what you might call "Unf*ckwithable."
Unless you're in a T-72 you will not win a head-on fight with a Bradley -- and even then you might still lose if the Bradley has its 2 TOW missiles ready, armed, and waiting for you. If you can't disengage and run, then your best bet is to unload in its turret and hope it breaks so it can't get a bead on you.

However, there is one spot on its side that can yield great results if you've got an ATGM or skilled HAT trooper at your disposal.
See that grate looking thing on the side armor? See the backpacks right next to it? Aim there. Behind those backpacks, within the hull, is the ammo compartment. A penetrating hit there can ammo rack the Bradley and destroy it very quickly.
Stryker
Front:
Side:
Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The Stryker's biggest advantage as an APC is its Blue rated frontal armor. Unless you're in a tank or ATGM equipped IFV, you are very unlikely to win a fight against a Stryker head on. Your best bet is to either run away or unload into its .50 cal CROWS HMG to break it. If you have a shot on the Stryker's right side it's advisable to aim for the highlighted black grate, which contains the CROWS' ammo. It's easily identifiable by how it juts out when looking at it.
It can be difficult to hit it head on, but it is possible. I have personally won head-to-head encounters against Strykers by aiming at that grate.
M-ATV
Front, Side, and Rear:
It's Orange rated all around, except for the open top turret.

Frontal engagement tip(s):
If it's an open top turret, aim for the turret and the guy manning it. If it's a CROWS then just shoot the main body until it explodes.
Great Britain Vehicles
This section covers vehicles used by the British Army
Challenger Tank
Front:
Side:
Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The Challenger's biggest frontal weakness is its very large driver's window.
An AP shot here has the potential to 1 hit the Challenger.
Warrior IFV
Front:
Side:
The Warrior pictured here is the variant with extra side armor added. The added armor is Green strength while the Warrior hull beneath it is Blue strength.
Frontal engagement tip(s):
Much like the Bradley, a frontal engagement with the Warrior in anything other than a main battle tank is not advised. Luckily for tank crews, the Warrior doesn't have any ATGMs like the Bradley. IFV or Scout Car crews are not quite as lucky. Disengage or unload on the turret as you're running. If you're in a BMP then immediately switch to the ATGM to engage, then pop smoke and run for it while you reload the next ATGM.

It's quite possible for IFVs to blitz the Warrior and get at its rear armor since it does not have turret stabilization. No turret stabilization makes anything other than stationary shooting an unbelievable pain in the rear end for a vehicle's gunner. Only the truly confident (and skilled) IFV crew should attempt to outflank the Warrior to get at its rear armor.
Bulldog APC
Front:
Side:
Rear:
Frontal engagement tip(s):
The Bulldog has excellent front and side armor, along with decent rear armor. The real threat is the open top turret M2 Browning. Hitting that with HMG fire or explosives will kill anyone on it and deal enough damage to hurt or kill the Bulldog. Rear armor hits with HMGs or explosives will also suffice, but the very large turret is the best target to go for.

Recently a Bulldog with a remote operated gun was added, called the RWS. The RWS is not like its American and Canadian remote operated counterparts that come equipped with M2 Browning HMGs. The British RWS only has an M240 LMG. This means that in vehicle-on-vehicle combat the RWS is utterly harmless to all but unarmored Technicals. RWS and MTLB ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ encounters are particularly hilarious to behold.

Infantry going up against the RWS Bulldog should be on notice however, since its Blue rated front and side armor along with metal slat protected rear make it a true force to be reckoned with.
Unmentioned Vehicles
You may be wondering, "But what about technicals, logistics/transport trucks, and armored vehicles with a ZSU Anti-Air gun on them?"


I didn't mention them since the Ural ZSU has absolutely no armor and the BMP/MTLB AA platforms have the same armor value as their other variants. The AA guns in particular are easy to deal with, since all you need to do is aim at the exposed gunner on the top of the vehicle to kill him and disable it. Doing so is very easy even to an infantryman with no AT capabilities.

Oh and the armored technical available to Insurgents is Red rated all around; the gunner in the bed of the truck is still just as vulnerable to gunfire as in the non-armored technical.
Canadian Armed Forces Vehicles
When they add the transparent models to Jensen's Range.
Middle Eastern Alliance Vehicles
This section covers vehicles used by the MEA.

Good news and bad news first however

Good news:
The MEA uses many of the same vehicles that the other REDFOR (Insurgent, Militia, RUS) factions use, so you can look at those vehicles earlier in this guide.

Bad news:
Even with the new V1.0 release, OWI still has not updated Jensen's Range to include the transparent vehicle damage models for the Canadian Armed Forces or the newly added MEA. This means the MEA's biggest new addition, the T72-S, doesn't have a transparent model. As such, I can only offer a guess at its armor values. This is a well informed guess, but a guess nonetheless.
T-72 S
As noted in the MEA header section, there is no transparent model as of V1.0. However I believe the tank to have largely the same values as the base T-72 except for the new armor plating. The MEA's T-72 has ERA (Explosive Reactive Armor) plates all over the front and side of it; they're the little square looking metal plates.

Again, please note that these armor values are guess work, and I will certainly update them when OWI gets around to updating Jensen's transparent models.

Front:
Side:
Rear:


Frontal engagement tip(s):
After doing some testing I came to the conclusion that the T-72 S is just as (nearly) impervious to a frontal assault as its base model. The ERA plates offer great protection, so your best bet if you run into this tank head on is to aim at the turret mantle or knock its tracks off then flank around the side(s).

One important thing to note is the ERA plates on top of the turret:
On virtually all armored vehicles the top of the turret is the weakest part, and any AT/MBT hits here can easily result in a 1 hit kill. The T72 S is no different, however the ERA plates on the top towards the front of the turret can likely protect the tank from getting one shotted if hit there. If you have elevation on the T72 S and can see the top of its turret, make sure you aim carefully so your projectile doesn't hit the ERA plates.
Simir
Front:

Side:

Rear:



Frontal engagement tip(s):
This vehicle like the T-72 S doesn't have a transparent model as of writing, however it's really not as important. The occupants are completely exposed, so armor rating doesn't matter much. I mean if I had to guess it probably has Red rated armor, but it's kind of a moot point. Quick little bugger of a vehicle, though.
Australian Forces Vehicles
Soon-ish.
United States Marine Corps Vehicles
Eventually
Panasia Vehicles
Not for a while.
< >
16 Comments
BunchaChunks Oct 5 @ 5:35pm 
Here's a quick clip of the Stryker spot. I hit it a little low but it was still effective.

https://youtu.be/6LnhLBhByW8
[unknown] Oct 5 @ 4:41pm 
Thanks for providing the ammo rack weak point for the Stryker; I usually just aim for its turret with the BTR-82, I'll definitely try it out in my next armor fight.
BunchaChunks Oct 1 @ 11:55pm 
Thanks for responding Keystone! I hopped on the range as well, unfortunately the damage against vehicles is still broken. But do give it a try in a live match. I played a live one a few hours ago and hit a stryker in my mentioned spot with a successful crit.
https://imgur.com/a/OFa92xN
The damage model definitely shows a black front plate but I don't think small arms can pen it. RPG can for sure.
Keystone  [author] Oct 1 @ 9:23pm 
I thought the same thing and tried hitting that plate with HMG/AT rounds in Jensen's but it never really did anything other than scratch the paint in terms of damage. Then again, OWI explicitly notes that damage done in Jensen's doesn't always reflect damage done in a real match, so it's possible it might work in some live matches. If you're face to face with a Stryker and have no other option then it certainly can't hurt to try. But, as always, a shot to the flanks or rear is what you want.
BunchaChunks Oct 1 @ 7:43pm 
Please correct me if my info is wrong or outdated but doesn't the front flat plate of a stryker offer low/no armor? I always aim for the flat plate, left side for a critical hit.
EasyTameFroggy™ Sep 25 @ 3:02pm 
Why do they model the Kontakt 1 super strong XD IRL it has no effect on kinetic energy rounds
Even with Kontakt 1 it cant stop Tandem SC No any Long-rod shell..... and with the fact that its just a T72 ural with kontakt 1 The base armour is just paper
Keystone  [author] Sep 20 @ 6:37am 
There's no transparent models for CAF vehicles on Jensen's; not even the CAF version of the map. Though if there's somewhere I can look at them I'd be glad to know.
Where is the photo Leo Lav?
REX8836 Sep 5 @ 6:23pm 
thought i should point out you can take out a m-atv engine out if you shoot it just above the wheels underneath the mudguard at the front wheels
Keystone  [author] Aug 26 @ 9:47pm 
Many thanks :]