Best way to know when end of train is fully in the siding?

[pugdogg55]

What is a good way to know when the end of your train is fully in a siding when you're using the DE6 or other locomotive that can't have the remote controller?

I was pulling through Harbor G yard to drop the end cars off in their respective siding but I couldn't see the end of my train so my only option was to teleport back to the siding to see how much farther I had to go and then teleport back to the locomotive and stop at the right time. The remote would work for this as then I could stand at the end and stop the train that way but the DE6 can't use the controller anymore. This teleport method also wouldn't work if you're playing in the realistic mode.

You can kind of use the caboose on the map to guesstimate but that's not reliable. I suppose you could also drop the cars and pick up a DE2+slug to deliver them to their sidings. That could be fun. What do you guys do in this case?

[Knsgf]

If you play on Comfort or Standard, you can press F3 and move camera back to switch so you can see haw many cars are still outside the track.

[GenX-Gamore]

use F3 to use the Flycam... You can fly all over the map...
Use F2 to use the Chase Cam = cam follows the train...

[TigerB44]

You can also roll backwards, sitting on a buffer and open/close the break air valve for a short time.

[pugdogg55]

I should have noted that I play in VR so there isn't any flycam I don't think.

[Wiseguy]

You back them in instead of pulling them in. I generally do that anyway so my loco's wont get stuck on a dead end or between cars.

Also, the remote works if you MU a DE2 (the engine does not need to be running).

Another option is installing a mod to have the remote work with the DE6 ( https://www.nexusmods.com/derailvalley/mods/722 ). One thing that isn't mentioned in the howto video ( https://www.nexusmods.com/derailvalley/videos/9 ) is that when you start the game in VR, the mod manager will steal focus which breaks using the radio to set switches. Keep the game running, take off the headset, and set the mod manager so it won't start / show a window on start.

[Primus]

In realistic mode, I use two techniques for long consists: 1. Look back and wait until the whole consist is straight, with no wagons snaking in anymore into the decoupling track. 2. Bring the first car in your consist (the one just behind your loco) half way through the track sign at the exit point. Usually works for me.

[schutt]

Originally posted by Primus:

In realistic mode, I use two techniques for long consists: 1. Look back and wait until the whole consist is straight, with no wagons snaking in anymore into the decoupling track. 2. Bring the first car in your consist (the one just behind your loco) half way through the track sign at the exit point. Usually works for me.

That only works if you have 1 job behind your loco. i think the thread starter was refering to he has a "long train" with multiple jobs in it and he wants to drop off the last job. Then the car behind you engine is already way past G-yard. I think in realistic mode i know some ways:
- know how long your train is, keep constant speed: then you can count the time needed to move forward the required length. Thats exactly how real trains do it (or at least did it before advanced electronics)
- get out of locomotive, stop the train with cutting the brake line/flipping the last valve open when its at the right spot
- if you are driving similar length trains often, remember where the locomtive needs to be to have the last consist in the right position.

[TheLostPenguin]

Whilst I generally wouldn't use my 2DE6 main power pairing in yards at all, there are a few options I might consider:

- As others have mentioned, set your train coasting through the destination track at a few km/h and ride the last/first (depending on if you're forwards or reverse into the siding) wagon and dump the brake pipe to stop everything. If driving in forwards make sure that the track is clear, both in the siding and wherever the head of your train is going to end up!
- Also already mentioned, you can MU a remote capable loco into your power head. I really don't like this approach myself, but up to everyone how they want to play the game on their saves.
- Try and come to a stop as close to the right spot as you can, go back and look, count how many wagon-lengths you need to move forwards (or back), then move the train that far. With a little practice you should be able to get it right with about 2 shunts, unless you're running VERY long trains when it gets real hard to judge.

Currently my personal approach to avoid not finding a small loco I want to use somewhere has been to bring my own DH4 with me coupled to the tail of the train. When arriving at a station I pull through on the mainline and stop such that the end of train will be clear of the switches to access the various parts of the yard (having the caboose as second-last vehicle helps greatly with this, otherwise it's guesswork that sometimes requires an additional pull forwards as described above), shutdown the 2DE6, go fire up the DH4 and use that to do all required shunting. After delivering anything I had for that station, doing any local shunting jobs I fancy, reassembling my train with any new jobs and servicing the DH4 if possible, it goes back on the tail end, gets shutdown and I drag it with me to the next stop. If need be in dire circumstances this can of course also be started up and used for additional power, although without the caboose to extend remote range this can potentially cause a bunch of expensive damage since my total train length is often somewhat beyond the standard remote range.

[EyesBlack84]

If you are pulling in forwards I park the loco just before the sign at the end of the yard. (this is assuming the entire load can fit in the 1 spot) If not I do the backing in method of braking.

If you are backing in and can't use the remote controller, then run all the way down the train to the final car standing there ready to open the air pressure on the brake. Timing this gets me semi close to where I want it to stop then I just kinda count car lengths to figure out how far I need to back up then count the car lengths back from the loco and use a landmark being like oh, I will stop by this sign/building/tree whatever where the loco will be at and plant it there. Also if there are other cars there I reverse at 5mph/slower until I feel force then I know the car is butted up against me.

[Altfuture]

Originally posted by Knsgf:

If you play on Comfort or Standard, you can press F3 and move camera back to switch so you can see haw many cars are still outside the track.

Note that in F2 mode (follow camera), you can shift+mousewheel to scroll through individual vehicles in the train, which makes it easy to go quickly between first and last.

[Definitely Not A Helldiver]

The solution would be to tow a switcher (preferably the DE2 or DH4 since you have the remote control) along with you, either behind the DE6 or at the other end.

Just hook your switcher, no MU, and don't turn the engine on.

I did an FH and LH combination job, and LH jobs require multiple tracks to drop the cars off to, so I put my switcher between the LH and FH consists.