Інсталювати Steam
увійти
|
мова
简体中文 (спрощена китайська)
繁體中文 (традиційна китайська)
日本語 (японська)
한국어 (корейська)
ไทย (тайська)
Български (болгарська)
Čeština (чеська)
Dansk (данська)
Deutsch (німецька)
English (англійська)
Español - España (іспанська — Іспанія)
Español - Latinoamérica (іспанська — Латинська Америка)
Ελληνικά (грецька)
Français (французька)
Italiano (італійська)
Bahasa Indonesia (індонезійська)
Magyar (угорська)
Nederlands (нідерландська)
Norsk (норвезька)
Polski (польська)
Português (португальська — Португалія)
Português - Brasil (португальська — Бразилія)
Română (румунська)
Русский (російська)
Suomi (фінська)
Svenska (шведська)
Türkçe (турецька)
Tiếng Việt (в’єтнамська)
Повідомити про проблему з перекладом
The recovery system isn't interactive. It exists just to do factory resets or flash firmware images via USB.
How did you manage to 'brick' your Link?
http://steamcommunity.com/app/353380/discussions/0/490125737470862532/
Also when I run headless I always get NVFBC with good performance. With TV/Monitor attached I get a mixture of NVIFR for Direct X 10+ and software encoding for Direct X 9.
If I enable my iGPU, which I have, then the software encoding is replaced by hardware QuickSync encoding.
Best for me is to run headless NVFBC for everything.
Windows 8.1 Core i3 4160 + NVidia750Ti
I don't use a Wii U Pro Controller with the Steam Link, but I do use the DS4/PS4 Controller*, and it's having the same issue.
I also use a Steam Controller* on it as well, and it turns off on it's own shortly after I turn off the Link, so the functionality is there, it just needs to be changed to support the other controllers.
Actually, and while not much of a surprise, the Steam Controller has a ton of support and functionality through the Link and Big Picture Mode. I wonder if that's all restricted to just Steam peripherals or if that could one day be pushed to other controllers (likely going to have wait for Valve to do that).
*Primarily wirelessly, unless otherwise needed
I managed to restore to factory settings and now it wont update..
it is blocked to firmware version 249 and can't update.. it's possible to update the firmware via USB Drive? If yes, how do I do and where do I find the files?
please help me out!
I'd advise against it though. Try factory resetting the Link again. It should auto-update via the network. Check your network settings on the Link and see if its getting assigned an IP address. (If the IP is 169.254.*.* then you're not connected properly)
if in desctop mode and you notices LOW FPS. please change your theme to WINDOWS BASIC.
you will go from LOW FPS to 60 fps jsut with that little fix.
also change your REZ or 1280x720 witch looks fine on a 55 inch lcd tv.
I've just plugged in the Steam Link for the first time. I'm either getting no power or no signal, i cant tell which. There's a glowing green light on the ethernet port so there is deffo power to the unit, but nothing will happen. Someone help please :((
Are the Ethernet LED lights on constantly or does it turn on and then off after you plug the power cable into the Link?
If possible, go with hardware encoding. For me software is not playable.
The biggest issue I found was on my TV.
You'll have to set your HDMI port the Steam Link is connected to to "PC" or "Game".
I chose "PC", don't know the difference with "Game". On LG TV's you can do this in the input selection screen.
It will remove the input lag. Otherwise there's post-processing on the image which delays the image compared to the input.
A simple solution that worked for me:
Enable resolutions your desktop can't display. I did it through Catalyst Control Center/My Digital Flat Panels/HDTV Support. I'm sure Nvidia Cards have similar options. Added 1080p resolutions. These are then displayed in the display properties of your monitor (guessing that just allowing unsupported resolutions in "Display Properties" might have the same effect).
Make sure your monitor is off when you are streaming. Big picture will run in a letterbox and should not be affected, but when you tell a Game on your TV to run at 1080p it will force your monitor into that mode as well. 9 out of 10 games will run without a problem. In some (e.g. Tomb Raider) you'll have to turn off letter boxig. A few games won't do it unless you run your desktop at 1080p. In that case, on your TV, minimize big picture mode, set your desktop resolution. Get back into big picture, start your game and it will work (Ori, Lords o Xulima are the only ones I've seen so far). Hope that helps somebody...